Let's say you want your rear reading lights (C-pillar) to come on when you open the door, since you keep stuff in the back you'd like to find at night. What would be the easiest way to trigger the rear lights with a door opening signal?
Tap the wire from the passenger side dash-to-floor light and run it to the switch in the console? That switch has me confused and the EVTM isn't helping.
And yes, I've converted them all to LEDs, so the electrical draw shouldn't be much more with the additional lights.
1988 Cougar, I replaced the starter solenoid but put the wire from the battery and the wire to the starter on the wrong ends. I also might have connected the other wires on the wrong side. I realized my mistake after it was too late: I reconnected the positive cable and there was a large spark and I heard things click that shouldn't click when you reconnect the battery.
I reconnected it correctly but the damage is done: the whole car is dead.
I am away from my EVTM, does anyone know if I blew all the fuses? Or anything worse? Please help.
But I didn't and I was wondering if anyone can help:
1. I already converted the inner tails to brake/signal lights, so I have a full 3+3 system. 2. Connected ground to the black wire in the trunk wiring harness 3. Hooked up the signal source (it's a different color from what you see at the socket) from the main brake/signal wire in the trunk wiring harness...I had a spare from a parts car to hack up, so I found it on my car, cut it and sure enough, it's the raw signal. 4. Cut the signal wire at each light, connected it to the sequencer module. 5. I only did the LH side, because of the problem:
The lights are dead. No flashing, no nothing. I thought I had a bad ground and found another black wire (or a different location for the same wire) and it didn't help. Then it blew the fuse for the turn signals.
Bad module or bad wiring job? I'm totally confused at this point. :toilet:
Hey everyone, hope all is well! My foxes are still doing good, but I also imported a 1983 Ford Sierra Ghia, and that's why I am back asking a tech question.
There should be glass lenses next to the signal lights, those are Hella foglights. They APPEAR to be exactly like the Hella glass parts from an 87-88 Turbo Coupe. Can someone measure the dimensions of the glass so I can compare the two? Finding a replacement for the Sierra is nearly impossible (it wasn't interchangeable with the Merkur) so I am hoping I can buy 87-88 assemblies and be on my merry way.
Hey all, my stock fuel pump died in my '88 Cougar, so I got a 255lph one from Summit. It subsequently died on me when the tank was close to empty a WEEK LATER, and according to my mechanic, it was because the pickup/sock on the new pump isn't in the same location as my stock pump.
I am going over there to examine, but has anyone heard of this? And what the proper fix might be?
My booster is going bad, and its time to upgrade with the rest of my setup:
Turbo Coupe rear discs
Mark VII front calipers and 11" rotors
Continental/SVO big bore master cylinder
I have looked around (even found a post I did years ago) about this subject, but cannot get a definitive yes or no as to what is better: the '93 Cobra or the Mustang/SVO unit. No way am I getting another Tbird/Cougar unit.
(FYI: I am going off the part numbers from Rock Auto for all models in order to determine uniqueness.)
The fuel pump died in my 1988 Cougar, and I have this Walbro 255lph unit lying around. I have never touched fuel pumps before and am wondering if I can fix this, or if it's gotta be trashed.
I just checked my firewall (88 Cougar) and there is an eyelet with no wire attached to it. I think I lose the ground wire that should be on the firewall going to the engine.
If so, where is the other part of this wire? Where does it bolt to the engine block?
I am trying to get the tach working on a 1984 LTD LX, which uses the same cluster as a Turbo Coupe. The car was converted to a carb, and I assume all the CFI wires they cut made the tach die.
The car has an aftermarket tach on the steering column. I plan on using its wiring to feed the stock tach. Can anyone tell me which wires on the gauge cluster harness need the aftermarket tach's wiring to make it work again?
I have a 1984 LTD EVTM manual, but it doesn't cover the LX model. Hence my problem. :)
For Sale or Trade: a real cowl induction hood for a Fox Body Ford LTD, not the Crown Victoria. It fits all Fox body Ford LTDs made from 1983-1986. It was made by cutting the original Ford hood and adding a fiberglass cowl induction panel. It is silver with a black stripe. Notice the crack where the cowl induction meets the base of the hood, I suspect a little body filler will fix that.
Yup, that's what I am looking for, a console plate that has all mounting tabs intact and a leather boot that isn't dried out or separating at the seams.
If you have something in good condition, please post it.
My brother just got a 1984 LTD LX, and we need a few things for it: looking for a dual snorkel airbox (top and bottom) and the finned aluminum valve covers from a 1984 Mustang GT (or similar).
I see the air cleaners on eBay for $50-100, depending on condition. Tell me what you got.
Hey all, I have been messing with the dashboard in my 88 XR7 for a looooong time now. I took it out again to address a few problems, namely the cable on the HVAC that blends hot/cold air.
The cable has a LOT of resistance in it. But there is no binding or anything visually wrong with it. What can I use to lubricate this cable? It's basically a rubber hose with a metal cable in it.
Better fix it now before the dash comes back together!
Hey all, I was cleaning up all the leaves/etc from my cowl area and realized there was a leak when I ran the washer fluid pump. The leak was right at the in-line filter that's near the wiper motor, at the firewall.
I tried to take a better look at the leak, when I did the filter broke apart. One nipple at the end snapped inside the rubber hose. Any ideas where I can find another filter?
All of this happened when I re-upholstered my dashboard/new heater core and reinstalled everything. Here's the problem:
Number 13 and 18 fuses blew, I fixed it by removing the Systems Sentry thing in the dashboard. The copper lines on the SS's printed circuit were touching each other.
But I still don't have dash lights.
Looking at the EVTM i checked fuse 4 (it's fine) and the cluster illumunation relay. I switched the relay with the same one from the auto headlights and nothing changed. I wiggled the hell outta the dimmer wheel and nothing. I changed two headlight switches and nothing.
I am completely stumped, aside from maybe that the SS module needs to be installed to complete the circuit? Is that even possible?
