I was looking for one of those donut things but couldn't find anything listed for the car. Do you remember the brand gasket set that came with the donut? The FelPro 8993 didn't nor the Felpro kit above it (more gaskets).
ps: I have the headgasket number already memorized........this is not a good sign.
It was actually in an old nos Detroit gasket set i dont know the number for the set offhand when i stop by the garage to pay it in a few days ill see if i can find it.
I have been fighting an exhaust leak between the wastegate cone and the down pipe. Finally gave in on Friday and went to a exhaust shop. The cone part of the down pipe must have oblong from misalignment and was never going to fit. The garage made a new pipe and also added a glass pack for me right before the ler.
So much better! A little less on the dB's for the longer drives and I can hear the radio better. Also having correct reading from the wideband is a plus.
I've rented a spot in my friend's garage for the winter. Yesterday I put the 'Bird away before the snow comes and all the salt on the roads.
Now that marching band is done for my daughter's schedule, the parent taxi cab service has gotten a mild break. Two teenagers are busy. Plans for the winter is tear into the wastegate actuator and the gate operation. Replace the starter solenoid and the ignition switch (I think it is the solenoid going bad but not a bad idea to replace both).
I'd like to get a caster/camber alignment kit this winter just to tinker around with the MM caster plates.
One of my old headgasket sets came with a graphite donut thingy for the connection to the downpipe, i used it because of pretty much the same reason.
I dont have one infront of me but thought the color chart for the fusible link ratings was in the beginning of the factory EVT and troubleshooting manuals.
did you ever decide? i am converting both my 20th and my 1990 351w bronco. I am unsure nowadays if anyone here has found an even larger ampacity alt in the same case size,, as in,, "shop for this xyz car" and you will have a bolt on unit.
I will be redoing the main wiring to #6 cause i have a bunch of that in rhh/rhw flex telecom rated & solder lugs and such.
Yeah, i went with a factory remanufactured stock 60amp 1g one in the tbird. I figured the car is likely to stay bone stock so why bother. I put the 100amp upgraded 1g into my mustang turbo convertible along with a nos harness for it. I never got around to measuring current amps on the tbird at idle but the mustang pulled around 26 amps.
My return line was leaking both down along the motor and tubes(all over the starter also)and slinging back at the downpipe because of the bolt hole not being drilled out properly. Smoking and stinking. Alot of work just to remove and alleviate that in the tight parking space i had at the time, im glad i bought a pack of those gaskets for the return line on the turbo.
The humidity gets too much up here to go without A/C for us too. I spent my youth without A/C so I already did my dues there.
I spent a little over 8 hours working on the car yesterday. Only got about 2 things done. Oil return line and the air filter is on..............progress is progress.........
I spent 8 hours working just on the oil return line once because i refused to remove the compressor for access so dont feel too bad like you didnt get anything done.
I never had to do that, just some wd40 and lightly tapped it down using a deep socket. The first time i did one on my 86 tbird it was taken apart and put back together on my dining room table. Everybody uses the same stock images for the distributor gear so its hard to tell honestly. Quick look around shows a bronze gear for 80 bucks from esslinger, the kit is over 300.
So i made another one based on the information i put in this thread. I used a real nos ford bronco II fuel sender to make it instead of that chinese ebay one i used the first time.
I didnt like how the solder came out since its expired and expensive so i redid it and welded it to the tube instead since i had my handheld stick welder and some 1/16 stainless rods on me. I wish i had this the first time but its holding up.
I accidently blew holes in it trying to dial the welder in since it just has a dial for control and had it a bit too high at first for this thickness metal, it failed my "suck and blow" air test so i tinned it up with solder over the welds(since trying to fix it with the welder just made them worse) and now it passes the test. Ill see how it looks in the gas tank when i stop back at the garage again.
If these senders are resistance based you can use the gauge fix thing you splice inline i mentioned in my fuel sender thread(Tanks MeterMatch but there are others) to make the gauge read at any level you want, provided you know the values for each bar in relation to the temp so you dont blow your headgasket. Have you ever checked the engine ground strap?
