here is a link you can have access to for the lost infowars episodes that was recently found all in mp3 format. i grant open access to all for enjoyment or use. the link below is google drive and takes you to file folders you can download as you see fit.
looking for a reliable resource that clearly states the oem intended ampacity for each color coded fuse link as it pertains to the automitive manuf industry.
example, the dual bn/or leads of the stock 5.0L output on the alternator leads up to a fuse link up to the starter relay stud shared by the battery cable. what ampacity designation is this particular fuse link even though it could vary,, what is the engineering runway behind the choices of the fuse link wires and thier intended ability to handle variable current demands?
symptom- engine was shacking a bit like a plug wire was intermittent or maybe a misfire while under a load. i also thought i had heard a metalic rattle under the hood. i checked the plug wires and all was good and tight. i moved on to see how my fuel presure was and found good readings but................ then i heard a rattle while running similar to the one i heard when i was parking it last time a couple days ago.
the outter ring of my harmonic came off.
I keep equipment so long that it seems like i end up having to deal with problems that take years to surface like this one. Ive never repaired a harmonic so any advice will be helpful. What i need to know is are there factory alignment marks so when i install a new rubber,, i know i am doing it right. Otherwise i suppose i could find TDC and dial it in like that especially knowiing my timning chain is really new.
i am not sure if we have harmonic "balancers" or "Damperrs" or a combo of both. if both thaen that answers why i felt like the engine was running a tad rough.
We have a lot of good technical engineering minds here and i wanted to know your overall impression on the new Speed of Air pistons. Real use data heafty data points lending itself to have earned the tag "New Piston Breakthrough",, just my opinion so far.
try not to focus on cost ,, many people do not know the two most expensive phases of a project are R&D as well as Customer Ownership. everything in between when an item hist the market lowers the costs of either end when said item is no longer the new thing on the market.
Help with what the proper naming convention is of my ESD/Soldering mat
I have had an ESD/Soldering *HARD BOARD" mat in my garage since 95 when i got out of the Navy. This was on my workbench at NAS Oceana for my entire time working micro-miniature component level repair in my avionics shop 69A. close to the days i was a short timer, the shop was getting new ESD boards for all the soldering stations and we asked if we could have them and the shop supv said he didn't care, they were classifed as consumables. I carried mine home and its been a real soldier at all the abuse you can imagine. Time has finally taken its toll but its still functional and useful.... however, I am in the market for another one to place on my newly fabricobbled dedicated electronics repair station. I am looking on line and to my surprise, seems like everything i am finding for soldering workbench mats are all silicone. Sounds inferior to me and not something that will stand up to my kind of standards and expectations of a proper soldering mat.
Here is a quick vid of what i have and i am looking for something like it. My issue is i dont know how to shop for it,, meaning i dont kno what its called believe it or not. I am now starting to believe its BakLite with maybe a cermaic coating??? I dont know but i want to at least see if i can find another. If anyone at all is familiar with soldering stations where there would be a hard board desk top mat and you know what they are called, chime in. This one in my vid was also an ESD mat but its almost indistructable.
thanks in advance for any ideas or networking me with someone who may know. see vid below
I am experimenting on doing a two piece oil pan and would like to also post the process on my youtube channel " I FIX IT ALL".
A two piece pan would allow one to remove the pan without too much trouble,, pull the two long bolts out for motor mount then jack up the engine a little bit to achieve bell housing and front rack clearance.
location is 24941 and ph 304 772 4082 ask for scott.
I was really disappointed in how ford mounted the computer power relay. Its location being difficult to get to is an understatement. I am considering lowering it downward and over to an area that would put it basically behind the glove box.
meaning,, you open said glove box then push in the tab of the clove box so it swings completely down. now when you look at your hvac enclosure, to the right there would reside the power relay.
thoughts?
tid bit of random knowledge her in case anyone out there needs to know............................................... *** IF *** you have a ford engine with a CFI fuel injection system.... your EEC power relay is unique unto itself. it is not by any stretch a mirror of what you would know of as a standard relay. more specifically, if your engine has an IDLE SPEED Control Motor, mounted to the side of your CFI, the proper relay for your car would be one that has a time delay built into the low current side / coil side of the relay offering a time delay when you turn your ign sw "OFF". during power down, the eec power relay stays energizd for a couple seconds to respot / re-position the nose of the ISC motor for your next startup. once this eec command is complete, the eec power relay will power down.,,, actually after a couple seconds it will power down. All im saying here is that the eec power relay has a power down time delay built into it just for the sake of properly operating the ISC motor controller.
I swapped in a 5.0L sefi into an originally built 3.8L CFI coug, i was able to use a standard relay for this application and so would anyone else who *does not* have an ISC motor controller typically only equipped on CFI application engines by ford.
once upon a time, i had to replace the OEM horizontal shock in the rear of the 20th and had a hell of a time trying to find them in box stores. I ended up measuring the lenth and bought a set that seemed to be called out for Jeep.
later on i was drilling deep into Rock Auto and as with any life lesson,,,, if only you knew what the thing is called you might be able to find the part.
i sumbled across what appeared to be an identical looking ""cone"ish ended looking shock that rock auto had at that time dub'd as a "steering dampener". I lookded at the specs and it was a match for these two tiny shocks and ordered a set , stored them back and later on installed them. I called rock auto and had them update how they classified these shocks so people can find them easier and now they can be found under the following path............ car info.../ drivetrain / axle shaft dampener
just fyi incase you too were wanting something that looked identical to the ford OEM ones. they are 24$ ea by Gabriel pn 14039
A long while back i posted a thread about my "white" coug now black i was building for my youngest boy chance.
I modified the power steering pump mounting bracket which in its natural form we all know,, the aluminum mounting bracket "surrounds" the pump itself and does not allow you to remove the pump unless you have the special tool to remove the pully.
I noticed the pump is bolted to the braket with 3 bolts and lets say at the 12, 4 & 8 o'clock locations viewing it face on.
I broke out my bandsaw and cut away the minimal metal in between the 4 & 8 o'clock position and got a lot of ball busting for doing so. Fast forward to me taking vacation in 14' up to reading pa to do nothing all but enjoy time with my Bro' in law, my son's and a member here "jayandmustangs" aka "justin" as we all hit the vast wealth of junkyards. I stumbled across a ford that i dont remember the car,,,, but from the factory it had this very same quality.
I am going to do a vid on it and also capture the casting number for the sake of information preservation / knowledge of this forum so others can make it useful if they like.
I am going to be forced to replace my oil pan soon,,, its given me no choice. its rusting out. during my "Jumped time" project" i found out where my majority of oil leak was. Two pin holes on the pass and one on the drivers side. I mixed up some super sauce of epoxy and putty and jbweld and its holding for now. seems to be what everyone else is doing for a somewhat semi long term repair.
In the meantime i am looking for a oil pan from someone so i can "make" it into a two piece pan, This will help "future proof" so to speak the ease of which it is to access the bottom end in the future. Anyone with a pan can call 304 772 4082 and ask for scott.
i put this thread here because i know there will be questions. I have found a sheet steel product that is "H" shaped which is the key to enable this idea to move forward. if this has already been done then pls share cause i will need all the help i can get. Overall this will be an easy project to achieve. Sketch up available if needed and i will likely do a vid on it at "i fix it all" on youtube. Its my belief this solves a burden us fox body people have.
i ordered a mahle metal/rubberized single piece oil pan gasket but before i installed. i made a template for future use. if anyone would like to make their own gasket out of a material such as what i use ( KARROPAK).
i made the templated using "fish paper" which is a telecommunications part aka "fiber paper".
if anyone is ineterested in making their own oil pan gasket, i can mail this template out to you as long as you send it back. it will fold up into a standard envelope so its not costly. ask for scott at 304 772 4082 if you want to borrow it.
as for the front and rear part and sealing up things,, just follow my template and these two areas are wide enough to span the grooved out area where you would fill with silicone then use your flat gasket and button up the pan.
i guess what i am saying is i have a template for you to make your own "single piece" gasket out of materia you have.
this may not be up everyone's ally but here is a gift idea that i honestly believe every house could use and it being appreciated for many generations to come. simple tech always seems to win in the long run. a good christmas gift for anyone , easy to make and nearly all the material you should have lying around. pay attention to what i mention in the vid about making the total unit a tad bit longer to accomodate wide mouth jars.
I have *********WAY TOO MANY********** and its a sin to waste them.
I want this to be a serious topic for serious times by serious people who are not asleep. I am considering a zero dollar cost idea to network us all together on one platform that will eventually piss off the globalists.
fuel pres - 40psi during crank spark tester at a random plug wire shows pulsating light swapped remote ignitioin module (my mod to the TFI), still no start Noid light inserted into an injector plug , during crank the light blinks very quickly
so it apears i have spark, fuel and injector reaction but still no start.
i was under the impression that if the hall effect was bad that my noid light would not blink but it is and in my opinion it seems to blink whay quicker than i expect during crank. AS in i thought the injector would only blink when its respective stator would pass through the hull effect. what i am seeing is something like several blinks during a rotor button single revolution.
any suggestions or thoughts? im swapping the dizzy tomorrow meaing i have rebuild one beause my standby unit never got rebuilt like i intended way back when.
i am very surprised that i have everything i need for the engine to start & run. an almost impossible situation again lands in my lap.
