update,, i will have a lot of extra butter nut seed,,LOTS along with pumpkin. but i have a lot of other types of exta seeds if anyone wants food without harmful ingredients. all are free and also i am interested in trading.
tip of the day for zone 6A *How to get two crops of taters in one year and **BEAT** potato bugs an thier own game.........
pick a spot in your yard to lay out abotu 12'' deep of mulch. try to get mulch from a tree trim company and they will generally dump it at your yard if they are working close by. let it sit over winter. come jan eb,, start poking around trying to find anyone with seed potatoes. target having seed potatoes in your hands in the month of january store the bag in a warm area of the house and allow them to "eye" up. mid to late feb lay off your tater rows with a hoe or rake. drop your quartered up tater seed and cover them up with mulch pertty deep like as deep into the mulch as you can. dont worry about frosts, the taters will sprout,, cold may kill off the wirey shoots at the tippy tops but they will make it. warm weather will come and they will go gang busters in your new mulch in may have another sack of seed taters on standby and let them eye out. 2nd week of june you simple rake back the mulch and pick up your taters. drop in your new quartered up tater sets and cover them really deep. harvest your second set as you see fit.
what have you done? you have broken the potato bugs pattern,, they generally show up during late june and hang out to destroy yoru plants especially red potatoes. welll.. since you harvested around the time they were waking up,, they had nothing to do so they move along or just have nothing to eat. your second crop will be coming on later in the year when they have long abandoned ship.
you get two crops of taters and avoid tater bugs. best part is,, you save back some taters over winter and a lot of those will eye up and be itching to get in the ground really early anyway so you will end up sourcing your seed from yourself.
i cant stress this part enough,, you gotta have sun............ must have sun and you gotta observe your obstructions now when the sun is low. its better to catch the tree obstructions in the spring also,, and just drop them into your woods. let the tree dry out for use over winter if you heat with wood. gotta have sun!!!!!!! you have to have a min of at least 8 good hours of sun to make a garden useful. 8hrs of sun in the spring months is equal to what you would see in the later months.. this means your over 8hrs in the summer. you cant garden if you dont have sun. also,, if your doing raised beds (NEW),, make sure your broad / long sides of your beds are south facing,, or easier said,, make sure the skinny ends are aimed east to west. this will dispurse sunlight more/most evenly across all the beds.
here is a link you can have access to for the lost infowars episodes that was recently found all in mp3 format. i grant open access to all for enjoyment or use. the link below is google drive and takes you to file folders you can download as you see fit.
looking for a reliable resource that clearly states the oem intended ampacity for each color coded fuse link as it pertains to the automitive manuf industry.
example, the dual bn/or leads of the stock 5.0L output on the alternator leads up to a fuse link up to the starter relay stud shared by the battery cable. what ampacity designation is this particular fuse link even though it could vary,, what is the engineering runway behind the choices of the fuse link wires and thier intended ability to handle variable current demands?
did you ever decide? i am converting both my 20th and my 1990 351w bronco. I am unsure nowadays if anyone here has found an even larger ampacity alt in the same case size,, as in,, "shop for this xyz car" and you will have a bolt on unit.
I will be redoing the main wiring to #6 cause i have a bunch of that in rhh/rhw flex telecom rated & solder lugs and such.
update....... just completed the use of "heater hose" , the kind with fiber inside and it worked. vid uploading and forthcoming. i used the same process to assemble and al went very very well. i was also able to check to insure there is no crookedness using simple tools.
update........... called "pioneer automotive industries" and they agreed their database is incorrect and that a 351w is 28oz imbalance for pre adn post 82'. the 302 is also 28oz pre82' and 50oz post 82.... "ish",, and then the debat goes on for 1981 samples.
so............ pioneer refered me to "damperdudes" out of claifornia. i called them and they say they are repairing dampers with two part silicone and baking them. they set them up in a jig,,, and inject the two part silicone,, let it start to set then bake. they mentioned that in california,, rubber was classified as a health hazard and they had to spend more money to retool and meet state epa and global warming regs. damper dudes and i discussed my measurements and observations and agreed that they to would be simply pressing these reman units together but they never consiered using recycled material like rad hose. i found out that rad hose failed due to its excessive thickness. the natural gap aorund the hub to intertia ring is .100''. rad hose is .180'',,, heater hose is .140''. i am doing part 2 with heater hose to press fit and repair.
its amazing how good of shap that lower rad core support is in. you amaze me with your quarky appreciation for the odd fox box platforms. im sure you will turn it into a gem!
putting out another reminder............. if anyone here wants to trade seeds i have plenty.
this past year i purchased zero plants,, everything i grew was 90% from the previous years yield. everything i grew was seed over the course of the past 3 years so my seeds are aclimated to zone 6A and showing proof positive a pest resiliance / evolving to my climate as what is spoke to us from the bible.
See my youtube channel with an avitar of a 20th aniv cougar logo..
channel name is.........
I fix it all
if you want some free seeds,, lets coordinate ,, 304 772 4082
well now,, it appears i ****DO NOT**** have a spare harmonic.
I removed the unit from my 1990 ford bronco full size 351w. i compared it to my spare. it appears my spare is for a 302. my spare is about 20% thicker than my bronco unit with repect to all thickness measurements i made.
more differences........... I am very confused on the exterior inertia ring. the broco unit has more meat on it than a 302. my bronco unit has extra metal on the inertia ring occupying the area equal to 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock. my cougar unit has extra metal on the inertia ring occupying the area equal to 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock.
I look on rock auto and yes these are available for my bronco. i experimented and entered the data for my bronco and on a separate tab, entered the data for my 87' 302 cougar. Doing a side by side comparrison, it appeared rock auto says the same number for both engines such as vendor "Pioneer". I found this same problem with other vendors but not all while doing a side by side.
since my intension was to replace with my spare,, and now that i am gunshy with rock auto,, i found a unit on ebay for 59$ shipped that matched my for "E" number and foundary stamp so soon i will have one.
this will not prevent me from repairing the unit i have with a vid. it will be fun,, no vids exist for this repair at all where one is pressing the inertia ring back onto the hub.
