I looked but couldn't find 'em. Fairly sure I had some out there. Doubt they'd get swiped when there's much more valuable wheels and other stuff LOL.
I have some stuff at the other farm...it is possible they're there.
Regards to your question...I don't know until I see em. I CAn tell you though, they're the real deal from way back in the day, not the new ones made now by LMR or whatnot.
I'll do a little digging around this weekend, see if I can come up with something for ya.
I DO have a really nice set of ten holes with tires that I have no need for...
Dont worry about it, im not in any rush for this. Im still trying to put money aside for the tires since that is going to run around 2000 bucks itself. The only other rims i was considering are the phone dials since i like them.
Since its snowing now and im not really working on the car or driving in it my winter plans are to scan some of the ford and tbird literature i have piled up for whoever it might help or might be interested in it.
I think he is actually just asking if the originals were solid or hydraulic, which im guessing means he doesnt still have the originals handy. I dont know about the 2.3l ones but my 3.8 v6 originals were hydraulic. If the isolators are all the same i would just pick up the hydraulic ones since they are available.
Wasnt 86 the transition year for motor mounts, from the block type to the pedestal ones? I dont know about the 2.3 ones but my original mounts on my 3.8 v6 86 tbird were the hydraulic pedestal type. When i replaced them with the only available replacement, solid type, the motor shook and the car vibrated thru the steering wheel for months afterwards.
There are basically a bunch of different sending units for this car, buttstuffog/digital and w/tripminder, none are available anywhere. Unless someone has one they can part with you are better off making one from scratch like i had to do.
I just use imgbb for hosting since imageshack is gone. Even though many forums offer hosting for images id rather not since the size of attachments can easily be exceeded by even the smallest of phone pics now.
Opinion, considering how deep you already are here at this point would dropping the k member to get the oil pan out be considered excessive? Its not like you are doing this on the street. Doing all this finagling to get it out and to get it back in just increases the chance for something to go wrong and having to redo it.
Yeah, those manuals on CD are a pain to work with. I have to hang on to my Win XP computer to use them. They're a no go on Win 7-10. I don't know if there is a visible difference between the 40 and 60 amp versions if the color stamps are not there. In the text it says the stator coils are in a delta configuration in the 60 amp. The side terminal shows the difference in the diagram.
I hear ya on the windows xp thing.
The only thing i know of how to tell is the stamp on the case for amp rating. My car has green and yellow paint on everything, including the alternator, for no reason so if i was looking for just that i wouldnt be certain of its rating.
The stamp on the nos one i got, it was under the sticker they put on it.
Its mostly just a reference to the technician, the stuff you posted i probably have on the ebay service manual cd i bought awhile but am too lazy to pull out the computer for because its terrible for looking up specifics that way. Rather have the paper back ill get around to buying one at some point.
My mustang convertible would probably benefit from a 3g upgrade but im not seeing much info regarding that for the 2.3l.
It's not that different to install a 3G on a 2.3T than any other. You need a small case, 180* mount alternator and swap the pulley if you're keeping the dual belts. I've had a 130A 3G on my TBird for years.
I put a 95A 3G on the LTS and would never consider another 1G, unless for some odd reason I was worried about originality.
I was worried it will stick into the distributor and ignition cables too much since its already kinda tight there. Hopefully not.
My wiring appears to be fine, when i had everything apart for the belt tensioner swap i remember inspecting it some but just on the alternator end because i was working on that part of it. It was awhile ago ill have to double check. The 3g swap doesnt allow me to retain the choke wire apparently and i would have to run a new one for it. Not really leaning towards it at this point anymore. My mustang convertible would probably benefit from a 3g upgrade but im not seeing much info regarding that for the 2.3l.
The upgraded 1g would make me want to put a better circut breaker/fusible link in place of the factory one but i dont see any difference in the wiring gauge for later cars with higher amp output, the charge wires and fusible links appear to be the same size for 3g powered cars stock harnesses ive been looking over.
I have off this thursday im going to try to pop over and pull the alternator out and see if i can swap the front part on the powermaster and see what happens. Going to have to dig up a decent multimeter to read amps but im sure i have one around somewhere.
The alternator in the thunderbird still currently works but is making noise and the threaded hole is stripped out so instead of rebuilding it and having other issues later(its pretty rusted up on the inside from sitting around for years) im just going to replace it. My wiring is in good shape no issues there. Was looking for opinions on which path i should walk down here.
My current available options are the following,
A factory rebuilt nos 60 amp unit. An upgraded output 1g external regulator alternator. 3g alternator upgrade.
The factory rebuilt one is old nos but is probably fine since it was just sitting on a shelf for years. Just bolt in and go. I cant remember if i had the 60 or 65 amp unit, and ofcourse i have pics of everthing else on the car i messed with except the alternator. Im not going with some parts store rebuild because of reputation and experience with them.
The upgraded output 1g alternators i find go up to 100 amps with 3 wire connections, without having to mess with new or cutting wires but are all in the 12/6 oclock position and would require the front part of case to be swapped. Sounds simple and was apparently common but i cant find a single example of someone doing this.
The 3g seems to be the most beneficial and gets recommended alot but i have a few caveats about doing this swap. Mainly its the wire cutting and possible bracket grinding. I really dont "need" 130 amps since im carbed and not running anything that isnt stock. Im considering a fan down the road but the upgraded 1g could handle this without all the snipping/adding wires and all that. The 95 amp ones would work without grinding but the rest still applies. For such a common upgrade i couldnt find a single pic of a pre-86 v6 car with it, im sure they are out there but all the kits out are for 5.0 cars anyway.
I already have the nos one and a powermaster 7078, nothing for the 3g except some harness i could use if i had to.
Back at the garage today for a few things, though mostly the non functional drivers window.
After removing alot more scews than the last time i remember having to do this i removed the door panel and handle to expose the vapor mat and such.
After pulling that stuff off while trying not to ruin it and removing the door speaker i got to see where the motor was.
Maybe im crazy but i dont remember my 86 having the motor in the middle of the door like that, though that was a long time ago. Now as you can see in the upcoming pics there are factory dimples on the door for you to drill thru to get to the bolts, i wish my hands were smaller because i hated drilling holes in my car even though thats what they are there for.
I used a step drill and made the holes 1/2", which was enough for my nut driver to get thru and reach the bolts. The bolts themselves were 5/16, which was smaller than i was expecting them to be. No drama in removal of the motor itself, just came right out thru the speaker hole. While i was in there trying to clean the metal shavings and leaves and whatnot, i got what i could of them, i checked the speaker wire and the connector was corroded, as was the speaker plug end. The speaker itself has seen better days and was missing 90% of the outer ring stuff.
Bummer. Guess ill have to replace that, if i can find it, and the other door probably is similar so that means i got to plan for both. Back to the window motor it was as i suspected, the 3 plastic things broke into pieces which renders the window useless.
Atleast the motor is good because i hear the replacements arent that good. I wish i couldve washed out all the old grease since the replacement gear set barely came with any but im confident i got all the broken bits out. It is what it is. Threw it back together and works like a charm. If i had grease i wouldve greased up the rails for the window mechanism but ill try to remember that when i have to pull the panels back off to replace the speaker.
Side note, i swear there were these little plugs you could get from ford that went into the holes you had to drill but couldnt find them, would like to put something in there when i go back in there.