yes i found the relay today after rechecking all the fuses, switches and bulbs in the cluster, i would rocker the headlight switch fast until i felt the relay that intermittently worked and replaced it
Problem I'm having is the Instrument Cluster back lights do not light up during the day (well its very very dull) unless the head light switch is on,
at night the Cluster is bright and normal with auto lamp working
all other lights in car and external work,
i have replaced all the switches that have to do with the lights, dimmers and auto headlight , the auto sensors on the rear mirror and the one under the center dash hoping to fix the issue,
is there a relay i am missing ?
could it be a ignition switch problem starting or ...
my clutch pedals didnt come with that one , so i figured i would just not use one. if i needed to turn it off i would tap the brake or use the steering switch
I'm at that point in the build where its wiring time
1987 cougar 20th anni
89 engine 5.0, t5 and a9l computer, mass air
I've been searching and reading and reading and searching for info on how to wire it up so pin 30 and 46 are cool with each other
the closest I've come to figuring it out is
How to kill, repair and not kill again an A9L in an 88 and possibly others by CougarSE
memory seat module by james cassity
and some other guys on the mustang forums
a lot of help and info from facebook and instagram
i know i have no voltage to pin 30 when in run or crank so i can get away with not doing any wiring at all but would love everything to work like it could have been stock
i traced the wires out on a physical harness ( 87 cougar ls auto) from ecu to end points for both pins
My plan was to cut the brown white wire (30) at the ignition switch, bypass it and wire them in parallel with the clutch and ngs , then return them to pin (46)
i was going to splice the red blue wire between the ignition switch and nss switch wiring and run them to the other clutch switch and connect them to the white pink (ngs) to complete the circuit for starting.
in my head and spare harness ( cougar ls 5.0 auto) it was kinda making sense till i got in my car and noticed the memory seat wiring plug had an extra wire instead of ending at the plug , now i am lost.....
someone please steer me in the right direction , ill read anything as long as it will work
my other option was to cut the brown white wire (30) just as it gets into the car before it splits into two leaving the brown white wire connected to the ignition and power seat plug. and add the clutch/ngs wiring at that point
lost lost lost
home made diagram was for me to see it as i was tracing and to kinda help maybe someone else has done this before
just starting my tc axle swap today on my 87 cougar and was thinking, would it be easier to swap the internals from my tc prop valve to my cougar instead of adding fitting adapters to go one size up or running larger lines to the back?
i know i still need an adapter from my stock lines to the axle line.
anyone know if the valve bodies are internally different other then that the rear brake fittings are larger
stupid question and trying to save money, i have an 8.8 tc rear end with 3.55 gears i wanted to replace the clutch plates and all the bearings before i swap it into the car, will i have to re-shim the pinion and carrier if i just replace the bearings with oem ford?
found some mice nests in my back seat and blower motor, pulled everything out and am noticing my dome light is not working anymore.the light does not work with the door or manual switch's but the lights under the dash still come on when the door opens.
anyone have a idea if there is a plug under the pass side dash i may have missed or if the light is grounded through the front seats seat belt assy that i removed for cleaning.
ive owned the car for almost eight years and insurance was killer for someone my age at that time, so i dont really remember if the trans was always like that because ive never legally driven it ( just around my neighborhood) but im 25 now and insurance is cheep
its under a light load i would guess , if i stomp it she will fly but still takes a second or to to realize and change gears. i guess im just looking for a crisp response when i touch the gas peddle not a delayed reaction. i was under there in the fall redoing my shift linkage ( long tube headers and column shifter) and the cable seamed to be in working order pulled and retracted fine.