Already moved the fuel line and filter when checking the trany support for double hump. The prior owner did a half a$$ job on fuel line and bandaged it with some cheap rubber hose that was dangling. He didn't even replace the plastic cap plugs to hold the inner passenger fender back on. Surprises me how some people do work on cars and forget where every goes back on. Just going with a set of short pipes with magnaflow lers off the headers with a slight dump bend on the tips to push exhaust out from being trapped under car. This is still all in progress though and will probably change my mind a couple more times. I don't want to go crazy either on a high performance build since the car will be under the wife's power after completed. If it was for me, I probably would be putting on the explorer heads, HO block, etc etc,. These HO parts don't grow on trees either and Ebay sellers tend to over price the out of them and they look terrible most the time. I don't want to start my build and cause a domino effect of having to keep chasing these performance parts. I could of and had original plans to drop the 302 in our mini truck, but the car caught the wife's eye and she wants it. She is deciding on between a Roush paint scheme or this really nice dark raspberry and black paint. Got to keep your ladies happy. I am getting too old to keep doing these search and pick and pulls and constant car checking's, tweak stuff...plus the law around here is getting to be a nuisance. I think they are making up their own laws now in City Hall, lol.
In addition, Our wrecking yards are turning into teams of dismantler chop shop crews and it's getting worse. I see so many clean cut guys walking with clip boards and cameras in our yards now, hiring teams to grab things as soon as a new car arrives. These people destroy everything around the parts they want with no remorse. They molest perfect parts on cars and only care about their shopping list.
Anyway, I have a complete 88 SEFI engine and searching for Maf wiring and a box, change a few wires, Then go to maybe a .523 lift cam. Ford Motorsport X-303 (roller), 1.60:1 ratio, block egr on the bottom intake with 3/4in plug, disconnect the small coolant line going to throttle plate, plus keep the intake temp down and spacer between upper and lower. Throw a set of 3.50/3.73 gears in the back and let the wife enjoy the car. The trany should be ok for a while, they are strong and we won't be doing any line locks or stuff like that.
Can I buy the Hood scoops? I will buy them immediately if not sooner. Can't PM you yet, new member.
Quote from: ringosc;442222
I am parting out my 88 TC. Red in color, 5 spd. The motor is half way torn down, but ran good before I started the tear down, just needs a new head. Has a leather interior in the car. Dash is cracked. The bottom of the doors are rusty along with the rear quarters. Front fenders are clean along with hood and trunk lid. All head lights and tail lights are there. Front and rear bumpers are good. Some of the parts aren't with the car so bare with me on trying to find some of the pieces. Willing to sell the car as is for $500 tital in hand. Let me know what you need and shoot me a price as well not sure what some of these parts are worth but I know some of the bigger items like fenders, hood, trunk lid, and bumpers I would like to sell for $100. Let me know.
The wrecking yard I go to sells any engine in any vehicle for $140, if it has alt, AC, pump, etc.. and For just the engine with no attachments it's $100. Not bad prices, but I'm sure if an HO Mustang rolled in, the EBay car gangs would be on it faster then stink on a turd. It's very hard to beat the crowd if that shows up. Also, all I would need from an HO to give it a decent extra power is the Upper intake, Throttle Body, and EGR spacer since the TBird is bottle necked in these parts. Hmm 28mpg? that's not bad! Better then my 4 cylinder truck gets.
Found this info:
1987/88 -- 225 HP @ 4000 • Same Camshaft, exhaust manifolds, and block as 1986 • Truck casting wedge cylinder heads with revised combustion chamber, casting # E7TE-AA, used through '95 • 9.0:1 compression forged pistons with valve eyebrows • Speed Density EFI with same intake runners, larger crossover duct, and 60 mm throttle body
1985 -- 210 HP @ 4400 • Hydraulic roller tappet camshaft introduced. 266' duration, .444 valve lift • Revised block (122 lb.) with two retainer bosses for roller tappets. • New cylinder heads, revised to allow service removal of the roller tappets • Distributor drive gear material changed to be compatible with steel camshaft • Forged pistons with low tension rings and thicker ring lands. Compression remained at 8.4:1 • Holley 4180C carburetor, with improved secondary metering • Water pump impeller diameter increased to 4.4" for increased flow • Stainless steel tubular headers
Well, I will start with I purchased my 1985 TBird for $500. No major problems besides the crack block which I had my suspicions it had. The crack was a half clam shell shaped crack at the #6 between the pushrod area and the cylinder wall. It was an ice formed crack since owner used no antifreeze apparently. I had a welder come and nickel rod the crack and I double sealed it with some JB Weld 2 part epoxy. I don't expect any miracles with the broken engine and the crack was only allowing water in the oil because it was only a water jacket crack, so if I get a few months from it I be happy. I recently picked up another engine at a wrecking that was running at the time the junked car was in an accident. So, I'm ok there and plugs looked real good and all 8 are identical. The engine is a 1988 5.0 and visually is identical to my broken '85 with AC compressor, Alt, air pump, etc. The only difference I see is that it has the larger EFI unit on top where as my '85 has the very first edition fuel injection with the carb body and injectors pointed down into it. (strangest thing ever). I have started to acspoogeulate my engine mod parts for the '88, like headers, valve covers, gasket kit, etc. and I think my decision is to switch out the EFI unit on top till a later time and install a new intake with 4 barrel, add a 303 cam with rollers and new rockers and rods. I'll end up doing my own valve job by reseating and grinding the valves and installing valve seals. Nothing crazy on the head work, just clean up and maybe some port work and matching. My goal is not to have a super car, but a stable, decent gas mileage, no smog devices, nice engine lobe idle fun car for the wife. I figure from the 150hp stock '88 I would like maybe around 200hp or so at the end. It's kind of a relive childhood build with a little thumper under the hood and even maybe a gear drive. It's won't be a daily driver, just some fun for her and I. Now I know I need to make some changes in my build. To compensate this computer thing with it. This is where I get into the stuff that is a little confusing. I have built up engines before and presently own a pumped Mitsubishi Mighty Max pickup with race cam and whatever and a '89 MR2 that is no slowpoke either. But, this TBird is my first American car and V8 ever, lol. So, I'm being just a little careful on what I need to replace, block up and re-install for this V8 build. I understand that I need to install another distributor and coil, rewire for a tach gauge or modify the ECM for the stock one to work. This and among a few other things that need attention, like cruz control and the others. I'll be picking brains as I get into this build so I can be sure to do it correctly. The vehicle is null from smog laws so this can be eliminated completely, but should I keep the oxygen sensors and install them again after the header in the exhaust pipe. Can I remove the Cats, it's these things that I need help with and to keep things somewhat operative with stability on this. I'm all ears for suggestions and hope you can grab what my intentions are with this build. I'm not creating a monster engine build, I just want all that smog stuff off and a nice sound and for car to start every time I turn the key.
