Guys, if you don't like the price on something make me an offer and we'll talk. I haven't had a single person interested in Chuck's shock mounts and I honestly thought those were one of the first things I'd sell.
If any TC guys are interested, I will throw in with them a set of low mile V6/V8 style strut tower plates that would allow use of Mustang struts up front as well, if you're looking to pitch the PRC. Just an FYI.
Also, I had sale pending on the fuel pump but I don't know why as some guy just said he was interested in it and I never heard another peep from him. So, it's still fair game.
V8 demon, sorry, some guy on another site has already called dibs on the battle boxes, I didn't see your post here. PM is your best bet as I forgot to tell it to notify me about new posts.
You can get them on ebay though, search for torque box reinforcements.
I have a few performance parts for sale now that I have sold my Bird.
Walbro 255 HP in-tank fuel pump: Bought this used, never installed it myself. It is in a Mustang/Thunderbird style pickup assembly, if you just want the pump and not the pickup assembly I can remove it and ship it alone. $50 shipped
Two spare TC wheels, no tires- $50, could ship but you have to pay shipping.
.63 T3 housing- Has usual cracks around wg hole, otherwise great shape, top bolt broken off. Never had any leaks though. $65 shipped
GN inlet- This is the straight style, 3" inlet, lightly ported inside and I threaded the nipple on the side for 1/4" (I think) NPT. SOLD
T3 compressor housing- This was a stock turbo coupe style housing that I ground down the ears on the outlet to use a regular coupler. It's not perfect, but I've never had a problem with it leaking or anything. Compressor wheel made light contact with the inside but there are no grooves or gouges. $30
Also have complete center section for this same turbo. Was leaking oil out of the turbine side and I think it might need rebuilt. $50
Will sell turbo complete, with wastegate actuator (minus elbow, I don't have one) for $175.
Garrett .82 Stage III T3 housing, non wastegated, 4 bolt outlet, $60 shipped.
3G alternator from '97 V6 Thunderbird & wiring harness for it- $80 shipped
I also have the (almost) complete original engine from my Turbo Coupe (missing distributor) that I would like to sell...pickup would have to be arranged. It's about 45 minutes from here, I might be able to get it here into town and bring it to my work where we have a forklift if someone is seriously interested. Engine has 140K on it and seemed like it needed valve stem seals when I pulled it. PM me if interested.
Also have an '88 TC complete longblock (oil pan to valve cover, no intake, exhaust manifolds etc). Unknown mileage. Same deal as with the above engine.
I may add some more things as I dig around my garage.
Bump...reworded the ad a bit and changed the price...like I said, I don't really know what to ask for it, I'm open to offers, so don't be afraid to ask.
Although I hate to do it, the time has come for me to part with my Bird. I just don't drive it anymore, I'm in the market for a newer vehicle and I can't keep the bird around (don't have the room).
So here's the skinny on the car...it has 173K on the body. Engine has approximately 35K on it, I can't remember exactly.
To get it out of the way, I suppose I should first point out the things on the car that will need attention. These are as follows: - Most obvious is the fact that the clearcoat is peeling. When I bought the car, the previous owner told me the car had been repainted 3 times. Apparently they did not prep very well when they did that last paint job. The clearcoat is completely gone from the roof (and in fact the color coat is starting to peel in a couple spots) and it is peeling off the hood and trunk lid. Everything else is perfectly fine, for some reason. - There is some damage to the driver's side of the car from a minor fender bender I had almost 6 years ago. Very obvious in person but very difficult to show in pics. I replaced the front driver's side fender and it doesn't quite match the rest of the car, the front end is slightly tweaked. Mostly it's a slight crease down the driver's side door and a couple small dents in front of the rear quarter. - Needs new tires. - There is rust behind the driver's side rear wheel. I repaired this area years ago but it rusted again. Passenger side has been repaired twice, doesn't look to be rusty but the bondo there is cracked (shown in the pics). These were done by me so they are a little amateur but it didn't look bad with paint on it and got the job done. - There seems to be a small amount of rust on the bottom of the doors, it has not rusted through the outside but the inside may need wire brushed/ground down and painted - There is a small rust spot at the bottom of the rear window (shown in one of the pics). This spot has been there since I got the car and has never gotten bigger, I dunno. - Of course, the car has a lot of the usual 27 year old car issues...some of the interior parts may have broken off tabs or whatever, most of this is from the PO and not of my doing and I have replaced a lot of parts. - For some reason, the transmission makes noise at idle in neutral with the clutch out, and makes a whining noise in gear (almost sounds like straight cut gears). It has been doing this since I replaced the tailshaft bushing and seal. I topped off the fluid last year, it has always shifted fine and I've never had problems with it, not sure why it's making this noise. It's definitely not the throwout bearing, had one of those go bad before and I know what they sound like. - The engine leaks some oil, unsurprisingly. I can't really tell where it's leaking from as last time I checked both the front and rear main seals looked dry and were not leaking.
Now on to the car itself, I will break down into individual areas as far to what it has done.
Engine/Mechanicals: This car has a '84 Turbo Coupe engine in it which I rebuilt in 2004. The block was honed, all new rings were installed. Has ARP rod bolts and a crank ser. Oil return is welded into oil pan (currently plugged), low oil level sensor hole has been blocked off (it was leaking). Head was ported and polished, chambers polished and CC'ed, by me. Has a Motorsport A237 cam and Esslinger adjustable cam sprocket. '84 TC cam cover. Intake is the "tall" SVO style intake, mildly ported and polished by me with a phenolic spacer at the head and the water passage is blocked off. 94 GT throttle body with blocked off EGR. Stock 35 lb injectors, Accel adjustable fuel pressure regulator and gauge on rail. Custom center mount header (made of schedule 40 pipe) with a Schwitzer S200 turbo. -4 AN oil feed (from head), -10 AN drain to factory drain in block. Ebay external wastegate, adjustable from 13-18 psi I believe (currently set around 15 or so). Nice front mount intercooler. Currently has blow-thru VAM. Forge BOV. Radiator is a Cobra-style 3-core, with dual 12" electric fans in a custom shroud (built by me), wired to an adjustable thermostat so the fans kick on around 200 and kick off at 180. Custom overflow tank. Clutch is a Centerforce II disc and pressure plate, with a factory flywheel and factory throwout bearing. This transmission also got one of the last NOS TC-style clutch forks in the country. 3" exhaust, has a cutout at the end of the downpipe that I have honestly never used). Connects to one of Stinger's first TC exhaust systems, splits to dual 2 1/2" with Hooker Maximum Flow lers, out 2 1/2" Flowmaster Mustang tailpipes modified to work, with 3" stainless tips.
Chassis/Suspension/Brakes: Front springs are used BBK 5.0 Mustang springs, rear are SN95 springs with overload airbags which can raise the rear of the car an inch or so. Shocks/struts are all factory PRC stuff. Urethane snubber. Front LCA's were swapped for a low mileage factory set a couple years ago with factory style ball joints. I still have the others that were in the car and will include them if desired. Factory front swaybar with urethane bushings and aftermarket urethane endlinks. '99 GT rear swaybar (7/8"). Maximum Motorsports strut tower brace and 2-point K-member brace. Subframe connectors with Chuck W's seat mounts. Front brakes were upgraded to 73mm calipers. Brakes have been converted to vacuum-assisted brakes with an SVO master cylinder and 5.0 mustang booster.
Interior: Boost & water temp gauges on pillar. Oil temp, oil pressure & volts in the center console. Custom white face indiglo gauges from Panther37 (the factory water temp face doesn't light up for some reason) with dimmer and switch for blue or green. Sony Xplod head unit (is a few years old), with Pioneer 3-channel 6 1/2's in the doors and 2-channel 5x7's in the rear deck. Factory amp removed. UPR Blu Thunder shifter (Pro-5.0 style with positive stops, with a custom handle made by me) Driver's seat has a manual track under it. The cigarette lighter is not currently in the car, I bought a new universal one to replace it but haven't wired it in yet. Has some nice stainless steel door sill plates that I got out of the '84 TC I pulled my engine out of. The map pocket on the driver's door unfortunately broke and I had to take it off. Also the car has a new heater core as of last fall.
Body: Cut out middle of front fascia to install driving lights, which are wired into the highbeams. These have 100W "gold" bulbs in them. Although you can't tell I took all the lights off and polished them about 4 years ago. Around the same time, took the taillights off, took them apart, cleaned them out, and resealed them. Also has newer weatherstripping around both doors and trunk.
That's all I can think of for now...any specific questions please ask. Everything on this car works (to my knowledge) and I would not hesitate to drive it anywhere. It was always a reliable vehicle.
NOW, another thing I am going to note- with the purchase of this car I will include a few things that I have had sitting around the garage and never got around to installing. These include: - used 255 lph fuel pump - a set of Chuck W's shock mounts that allow the use of Mustang rear shocks - a pair of low-mile V6 strut plates (was going to convert the car to aftermarket Mustang shocks/struts all around) - a set of "battle box" torque box reinforcements - two spare TC wheels with no tires on them - and whatever else I happen to dig up that I think should go along with the car.
I'm really not sure what to ask for this car...I have a lot of blood, sweat, tears and $$$ invested in it...so I'm going say $2500 or make me an offer. I know this car is a tough sell due to the paint and the fact that it needs tires. I MAY consider trades depending on what it is, but would prefer a sale (I have a loan I'm trying to get paid off early).
I'm offering this car up here first because I would really hate to see this car torn apart for a turbo swap.
So, on with the pictures....
Sorry, the interior isn't the cleanest it could be right at the moment, I'm gonna scrub everything down real good soon. Also I think the rust looks a little worse than it is in these pics because it was wet, I had just washed the car.
I have a pair of used BBK 5.0 Mustang front lowering springs in my car (unsure of the actual drop on a Mustang), and SN95 springs in the rear with overload airbags.
I like the stance (sits a little lower in the front than the rear), but it seems to drag the lower lip spoiler thing a lot and sometimes the exhaust tips...I wouldn't want it any lower. Also I've experienced no unusual tire wear with the lowering.
This is my first post here in I think over a year?
I FINALLY got my car running again a few days ago, after 8 months of it sitting not running. All it needed was battery cables (which I hadn't really known until probably May or so). At any rate, I had the cables for almost 2 weeks before I even put them on the car.
I've just felt apathetic about the thing...this car WAS my daily driver, I drove it all over the place (went to St. Louis and back 2 or 3 times), but I feel like I've lost that spark I had for the car. When I think about the memories I have of it, it makes me a little sad and I miss it, but then I realize I don't have that much desire to drive it anymore.
Last night I drove it out to the gas station to put some air in the tires. I realized I still love hearing it go "sh-sh-sh-sh" if you get a little boost going and let off the gas, but beyond that, I can't see myself driving it much anymore. It really needs paint, it has no AC, and it just feels like a 23 year old car.
Bottom line is, I decided months ago that once I got the thing running and cleaned up a bit, I was probably going to sell it. I won't get nearly as much out of it as I've put into it, but I do plan to put the money from it toward a newer car...I'm actually thinking about getting an '02-04 Mustang GT.
Cougarcragar I share your feelings on that stupid dogbone cable.
On my old Mustang, the first time the dogbone cable broke it left me stranded (I didn't know better).
The next time it broke, I was driving home from work, so I just shifted and did my best to force it into gear. I replaced it with a 1/4" bolt after that....held up for as long as I drove he car after that (a year or so).
The only time my Bird has actually left me stranded so far was just a couple weeks ago when then serpentine belt broke. I couldn't think of a creative fix for that one and I was still 20 miles from home.
Probably the biggest band-aid type fix I had to do- when I originally built the engine for my car, I had an oil cooler and remote filter mount on it, which I had a lot of problems with leaks on.
One night while working on it, I cracked the filter mount but didn't know it. Driving in to school the next day I noticed the oil pressure was low for some reason, and by the time I got to school I had almost zero oil pressure and couldn't find a place to park! Ended up parking it just as it was starting to tick.
I had to go out on my lunch break and pull the whole remote filter setup out of it, stick the filter directly on the engine, add the 2 quarts of oil I had in the car, and drive (slowly) to the closest place I could and get some more oil for it.
20,000+ miles later, it seems to be pretty much unaffected by that.
