Long time no chat..... I just decided to see what was up around here. I sold my t-bird a couple years ago..... and I still miss it dearly. Especially because my fun car is now a 4th gen Camaro... LOL
Anyways, just browsing around again, being nostalgic.
Hello everyone, I need to move this car ASAP, so feel free to contact me with any questions! Car is located in Sun Prairie WI, 53590. YES, it IS the TC in my sig.
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, black exterior, Raven leather interior. 130K on the clock. Power Moonroof. 5 speed, Tripminder installed.
Mods:
.60/.63 T3 Oil and water cooled Stinger feed and return lines Ported E-6 manifold, no cracks Stinger FMIC Large 2 row aluminum radiator Forge BPV Gutted upper intake, Knifed lower Steeda AFPR Cleaned and flowmatched Browntop injectors 255HP walbro pump Griggs Racing Tubular K-member Maximum Motorsports CC plates KYB AGX front struts (98 Stang GT models) Maximum Motorsports Front Swaybar relocation kit and energy suspention SB bushings (not installed) Griggs Standard Duty A-arms Griggs Racing Bumpsteer kit Strengthened torque boxes, Southside Machine lower control arms Welded full length subframe connectors Semi-Cold air intake Boport 1.5 Cam, Roller Followers, Upgraded springs, anti pump-up HLA's and shims. Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Balanced Driveshaft Lincoln Mark VII Front calipers Zietronix Wideband kit Hallman ProRX boost controller Powdercoated Valve cover NEW headlights NEW paint on front end NEW Fuzion HRI tires on Mustang Turbines Older Almpine CD Player w/ JL amp and eclipse sub 140MPH FMS Speedo Autometer 30/30 Boost/vac gauge, Narrowband meter in an A-pillar pod Stock DP, no cat, Pieced together 2.5" exhaust with a lengthened mustang mandrel bent Tail w/magnaflow tip. Drivers side exit. Most sensors in the car are brand new. (the exceptions being the BP sensor and the VAM) EGR deleted with a home made block off plate
The bad:
Has some AFR and power issues when under heavy load/boost. After messing with it all summer last year, we did a leakdown test and discovered that it needs a valve job. (leaking past the exhaust valves a bit) It runs perfect under normal driving conditions, and gets around 30 MPG on the highway if you try. Interior could use some love, as the dash is cracked, kick panels are currently out, and the front seats are worn pretty good. The headliner needs replacing. The rear seat was re-covered last year, but it is in black vinyl and grey leather. it doesn't look bad at all, just slightly different. Its stitched the same though as stock. Small rust spots on the exterior, but nothing that can't be fixed. The rear calipers need a bit of attention, they have newer rotors, but the drivers side rear sticks from time to time. Tinted tail lights that could use a good wet sand and polish. It was in a low speed accident with me driving. Both fenders were professionally painted along with the header panel, hood and the old bumper cover. Red stripe on front bumper cover missing, and the trim behind the wheel wells in the front is also off for now. the only thing keeping it from going down the road at the moment is a dead battery... i have a spare that works. The windsheild is also cracked.
I took it for a drive this weekend..... and its a shame that I'm getting rid of it. It drives so smooth, and I'm definitely going to miss it once its gone. I have NOWHERE to store it this winter, so its got to go.
I'm asking 3,000 OR BEST OFFER. Its well worth that just in parts alone, and it drives awesome. I also forgot that its sitting on Mustang Turbines with pretty much brand new Fuzion HRI's on it.... I have 6 Snowflake wheels with shiznitty tires that will go with the car.
I can post pics if needed, once I clean out my photobucket!
So I did something a few months ago, and you aren't going to like it. :)
I bought a 1994 Camaro Z28 with a 383 Stroker motor and a built Auto Trans. The T-bird has been up for sale for a while now, but nobody has even came by to take a look at it. I need to fix the power seats and its good to go for its new owner.
Here's the bad part: I love the Camaro. It pulled a 12.92 at 107 at Great Lakes DW last Friday, and did it on street tires.
Heres some pics for reference......
I almost hate to ask, but what do you guys think? :)
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, black exterior, Raven leather interior. 130K on the clock. Power Moonroof. 5 speed, Tripminder installed.
Mods:
.60/.63 T3 Oil and water cooled Stinger feed and return lines Ported E-6 manifold, no cracks Stinger FMIC Large 2 row aluminum radiator Forge BPV Gutted upper intake, Knifed lower Steeda AFPR Cleaned and flowmatched Browntop injectors 255HP walbro pump Griggs Racing Tubular K-member Maximum Motorsports CC plates KYB AGX front struts (98 Stang GT models) Maximum Motorsports Front Swaybar relocation kit and energy suspention SB bushings (not installed) Griggs Standard Duty A-arms Griggs Racing Bumpsteer kit Strengthened torque boxes, Southside Machine lower control arms Welded full length subframe connectors Semi-Cold air intake Boport 1.5 Cam, Roller Followers, Upgraded springs, anti pump-up HLA's and shims. Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Balanced Driveshaft Lincoln Mark VII Front calipers Zietronix Wideband kit Hallman ProRX boost controller Powdercoated Valve cover NEW headlights NEW paint on front end NEW Fuzion HRI tires on Mustang Turbines Older Almpine CD Player w/ JL amp and eclipse sub 140MPH FMS Speedo Autometer 30/30 Boost/vac gauge, Narrowband meter in an A-pillar pod Stock DP, no cat, Pieced together 2.5" exhaust with a lengthened mustang mandrel bent Tail w/magnaflow tip. Drivers side exit. Most sensors in the car are brand new. (the exceptions being the BP sensor and the VAM) EGR deleted with a home made block off plate
The bad:
Has some AFR and power issues when under heavy load/boost. After messing with it all summer last year, we did a leakdown test and discovered that it needs a valve job. (leaking past the exhaust valves a bit) It runs perfect under normal driving conditions, and gets around 30 MPG on the highway if you try. Interior could use some love, as the dash is cracked, kick panels are currently out, and the front seats are worn pretty good. The headliner needs replacing. The rear seat was re-covered last year, but it is in black vinyl and grey leather. it doesnt look bad at all, just slightly different. Its stitched the same though as stock. Small rust spots on the exterior, but nothing that can't be fixed. The rear calipers need a bit of attention, they have newer rotors, but the drivers side rear sticks from time to time. Tinted tail lights that could use a good wet sand and polish. It was in a low speed accident with me driving. Both fenders were professionally painted along with the header panel, hood and the old bumper cover. Red stripe on front bumper cover missing, and the trim behind the wheel wells in the front is also off for now.
I know I'm forgetting a lot..... but if you have any questions feel free to ask. I don't want to see this parted out, nor do i have the time to do it myself. It would make a great project for someone with the time.
I have power seats in my 88TC, and would really like to find a set of manual tracks for them. I know they are becoming rare, but i think I may have found some... and need questions answered.
I'm assuming that the cougar XR-7 and the TC both have the same seat tracks if they had a full console and buckets... correct?
Is there a height difference in the manual seat tracks? If so, how much? Its hard to put on a helmet with the powere seats all the way down. Also, do they go back further?
What are some vehicles I can find them in? I know that Mustangs are out of the question, but the 83-88 T-birds with buckets should work, right?
I found a set of wheels for the TC today... and I need some input.
I think I am looking at a 15X7 Enkei 3 peice mesh wheel gold colored. There are no center caps, and the person thought that they were Rikken Mesh wheels.... but they don't look like any of the Rikkens that ive seen. They look like this the wheels pictured in post #45 here: http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1214493&page=2 only without the center cap and in gold color.
Is it worth a decent drive to pick these up? 50 bucks is the price for all 4... no curb rash
So after last years modification bonanza the car has just not ran correct. After throwing a follower on teh number two exhaust valve, I found out that my cam was pretty worn out. I called up Bo-Port and got me a nice 1.5 cam, followers and HLA's. (Point of interest, three HLAs were busted when we took out the old cam) After putting the new cam in, we had a bear of a time getting things operating correctly, but we finally nailed down the idle and other things and took her for a drive. I was VERY dissapointed. the car had barely enough power to get out of its own way, and ONLY if you reached full boost and revved the hell out of it.
Last week, I got the Wideband finally installed (Zeitronix with a digital display) and noticed that the AFR's were all screwed up (rich as hell) Under full boost, it would peg the meter a 9.6. My remaned air meter is a large piece of junk, so i bought a known good unit from a guy over on TF. Between a few people and I we figured out that my valve springs are weak, allowing the lash adjusters to pump up, and hold valves open. (Under full boost and high rpms, the car will buck and quit... turning the key over right away to start it does no good, it sounds like the engine is freewheeling. Wait about a minute, and she fires up, runs rough and eventiually smooths out)
I have a set of Valve springs from Bo that should be here on Friday, so after this weekend the TC should be riunning GREAT.
I'll post some new pics up after I get it cleaned up, but here is the complete mod list:
Engine: 2.3L Turbo
Current Mods:
Engine:
Gutted Upper intake Knife Edged Lower 65mm Throttle Body EGR Delete Steeda AFPR Ported E-6 manifold T3-To4E .57trim compressor, .48 Turbine Stainless braided large diameter feed and return lines (oil) Semi-cold air intake Modified Air flow Meter Hallman Pro RX MBC set at 20PSI Cleaned and Flowed Stock Injector (36PPH) Stinger FMIC kit Turbo XS "RFL" BOV Boport Racing stage 1.5 Cam Esslinger Adjustable Cam Pulley
Suspension:
Griggs Racing GR-40 Tubular K-member Griggs Racing FR-2000 Front Coilover kit with 350lb springs Custom strut mount plates Griggs racing Bumpsteer kit W/Heim joint tie rod ends Energy suspention poly sway bar links Griggs Racing GR-40 Forward Offset A-arms with delrin bushings FRPP Balljoints KB Welded Subframe Connectors Southside machine Lift Bars with Delrin/Steel bushings Custom Welded Torque Boxes (1/4 and 1/8 inch steel plate) Eibach Non-Adjustable rear swaybar (thick as shiznit) Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates Maximum Motorsports Front Swaybar Relocation kit KYB AGX front Struts
Exhaust:
Stock Diameter (2.5") Downpipe with Gutted Cat 2.5" Midpipe (no ler) 2.5" mandrel bent Tailpipe with magnaflow rolled tip
Brakes:
Stock rears Lincoln Mark VII Front calipers (Phenolic)
Drivetrain:
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch kit New Severe Duty U-joints Balanced and lightened Driveshaft New Tailshaft bushing on the Trans Rebuilt World Class Borg Warner T-5 FRPP 3.55 gears with new clutch packs Redline Synthetic Trans fluid Amsoil 90wt Gear oil + modifier in the 8.8 Zeitronix Wideband w/display
I have a couple of topics over at TF.... I'll copy the Mod list and such here
Steeda AFPR Cleaned and Flowmatched Stock Browntops Gutted upper, knifed lower intake SC TB assembly, with a modified stock TPS EGR delete T3/To4E .57 trim, .48 Hot Side Hallman PRo RX MBC set at 15 PSI New WG actuator Stinger FMIC kit K&N Cone filter on the end of VAM Remanufactured (new as of yesterday) VAM A/C removed Walbro 255HP Pump with kit sold by JD's Performance Boport 1.5 cam, New HLA's Roller followers Esslinger Adjustable Cam gear, Set Straight up. NEW Autolite 764 plugs Gapped at .028 NEW motorcraft cap, rotor, plug wires Tested good dist and TFI fwiw Timing is set at 10*BTDC Spout Out Gutted Cat, Straight 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust Compression #'s
Cyl 4: 155 Cyl 3: 150 Cyl 2: 145 Cyl 1: 145
Problems: The car misfires at idle, and WILL NOT idle smooth. If you stab the throttle at idle, you can get it to misfire, and while its misfiring it will shoot puffs of black smoke out of the tailpipe. This tells me IGNITION MISS. If you rev it up to 6K and snap the throttle shut, it will sometimes stall and won't want to restart. When it doesnt want to start, the engine sounds (when you crank it over) like if you had all the spark plugs out and were doing a compression test. Eventually you can get it re-started, but it still runs rough. On the road, it breaks up and stumbles badly at any steady rpm, and it seems to get worse as the load increases, such as holding it at a steady speed while going up a hill.
If you go to the TF links below, it will show the things that have been checked and replaced, and what I have done so far. I really have gotten nowhere, and now it seems like I can't get anyone to respond to my threads over there.
Same k-member and a-arms MM Caster Camber plates Front Swaybar relocation Kit Same coilovers on ??? Struts
The car is lowered SLIGHTLY in the front, and by slightly I mean about 1-1.5" . I just need to know what struts would work better for my setup before ordering. I'm planning on buying the KYB AGX struts so I can adjust them as needed.
In order to keep my TC nice, its obviously going to be stored this winter. My old winter truck (89 Bronco 2) has about had it.... it looked nice when I first bought it for 450 bucks....
Pics:
After one winter and a bit of this summer, its toast. Needs alternator, shocks, body mounts, drive shaft, ect...ect....
I loved this truck, but I only expected to get one winter, maybe two out of it.
Its only got 82K on the clock, and runs/drives like a dream. New tires, and its pretty clean inside and out. Trans service was just done along with an oil change.
What do you all think? I like this body style of Explorer, and I WAS looking at a 2 door sport model 92, but it was pretty rusty.
I think this should last me a few years..... maybe even as a daily driver so i have more time to work on the bird.
