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Topic: Struts.... (Read 1291 times) previous topic - next topic

Struts....

Alright, I did a search and found a couple dozen threads, read them all and now I'm more confused than I was to start with.
 
I need a definative answer here before I spend $300 on struts.
 
I now have '87/88 T/C spindles, disks and calipers sitting here ready to go on the cat butI need to know what struts are going to work. Understand, I want a stiffer strut than the stock 5.0 cat strut. With that in mind, what is going to bolt on easy and work properly? I'm planningon getting some Koni's but I need to know if the Stang struts are going to work properly.
 
No speculation, please. If you have DONE it and you're happy with it let me know.

Struts....

Reply #1
Mustang struts will work, ask me how I know ;)
One 88

Struts....

Reply #2
I used the yellow Konis and loved them.
D2

Struts....

Reply #3
Konis are going to be about as good as it gets, I have no experience with Bilsteins or Konis, but both are considered premium.  Bilsteins are factory on Cobras and you could pick up a take off set really cheap.  SN95 struts bolt right on perfectly and work great.  I currently have blue Tokicos for an SN95 on my TC and I really loved them for a stock replacement, they give a good firm but very comfortable ride.  They are non-adjustable.  Most parts store struts seem to ride worse and handle worse.

I'm not sure if you want to shell out the money for new Konis if you aren't going to go very far with the suspension but they probably are as good as it gets outside of MM valved Bilsteins which can get expensive and obviously that's not what you're going for.

The stock Cobra Bilsteins might be a consideration though...
Long time Turboford freak...
84 SVO
88 TC
87 XR4Ti

Struts....

Reply #4
I've had KYB's for about 100k miles and I have a love-hate relationship with them. They're super-stiff such that the car corners GREAT, but the ride is also super-harsh. I could drive over a paper-clip and feel it. They're effectively compensating for the fact that I have standard 5.0 sway bars instead of TC sway bars. One thing on my to-do list is to get TC sway bars put on so I can ditch the KYB's without sacrificing cornering ability...

The point is that unless you drive on smooth blacktop *all the time* you might want to stay away from KYB's...
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
5.0L Speed density
Explorer intake
'92 Mustang GT cam
GT-40 racing heads
Unequal length headers
Custom-made duals
19# injectors
65mm TB
AFPR
T/C header panel
11" brake upgrade
T/C rear sway bar
Electrical mods: too many to list :D

Struts....

Reply #5
The smaller front bar might actually give better grip even if the car rolls a bit more, but it depends on a lot of things though including spring rates.  A good strut doesn't have to be harsh to handle good.  I would be sure to check the car over really well, bushings, ball joints, etc. before condemning struts/shocks.  Huge sway bars on the higher performance models worked with softer spring rates to keep the car stable and flat, but it also reduces the independent nature of the suspension, causing you to potentially lose grip over bumpy surfaces as it causes changes in one side of the suspension to be inappropriately applied to the other side.  Just my take from what I've learned.
Long time Turboford freak...
84 SVO
88 TC
87 XR4Ti

Struts....

Reply #6
As far as fitment goes....if the car is lowered from factory ride height, then use 87-93 Fox Stang application part #'s.

If it is stock ride height, the 94 + Mustang part #'s would work better.

Same goes for the rear. I buy 94 + Mustang rears for my Fox Birds.
Alan Mackin--Semi Professional Ford der
83 T-Bird 460
83 T-Bird Heritage 5.0
84 T-Bird 5.0
86 T-Bird Turbo Coupe NHRA Stocker & Super Stocker
87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe
88 Bronco II Drag truck 302
95 Mustang GT auto
2004 F-350 CC Dually V-10