So I decided that what I needed was a 4R70W trans pan, the capacity is a little more, and it's got that cute little sump that is perfect for a drain plug. I found a new one just sitting under a bench, so I painted it, made a drain hole, welded a 12x1.75 nut inside the hole, and took it to the vehicle. Once there I discovered that the pan rail was just 1 hole different compared to the AOD. No big, bolt it on with all the bolts that DO fit, cut a new hole in the gasket through the misfit bolt hole, center-punch, 17/64 drill, 8x1.25 tap, and we're back in business. New bolts in, lower the hoist, fill the trans, lift and check for leaks, and it's g out of the bellhousing.
:punchballs:
I happen to know that the new hole went through into the bellhousing and I didn't think much of it. Now I had a problem. Pulled the new bolt and like a windowlicker, I wrap it in thread tape and reinstall. No change.
:shoothead:
I didn't plug the old hole and the gasket still has a hole there. I used my new drain plug, and almost right away the bellhousing quits running fluid. Dropped the pan, checked, and sure enough, the old hole goes into the bell just like the new one. I filled the old hole with grey RTV and left a blob hanging out of the hole to fill the hole in the gasket. Buttoned up, filled, checked and dry.
:burnout:
Point of advice: When you move a bolt hole, get rid of the old one.
Another example of "It's just a bolt on". At least the drain came in handy!
I have a drain plug on my stock AOD pan. It was really easy to do ;).
Makes you wonder why they didn't add one from the factory.
Because they want the pan dropped for a tranny service. Not just an oil change!!
I figured I was planning to be in and out of the trans trying to get my shifts the way I want them. A drain makes that easier and cleaner.
True but I like the drain plug. It's a hell of a lot easier to drain the fluid and then drop the pan than it is to drop it when it is full of fluid. I've added a drain plug to the trans of every car I've owned to make fluid and filter replacement easier. I hate dropping the pan when it's full of fluid because ATF always misses the drain pan no matter how careful I am :hick:
Exactly. ^^
ATF is known universally to cover more square inches of flooring, by volume, than any other liquid on earth. Except for maybe soda that spews out of a can after you drop it and it gets a hole.
A drain plug is good and i install them. But the manufacturer does not install them as they want the pan dropped cleaned and the filter serviced. BOTTOM LINE Could be wrong!!!
Good logic Tom, but you gotta admit that a drain plug makes it easier to get the fluid out, sans mess lol
I could use a lower profile plug though. what I've got now is your basic 12 x 1.75 o-ringed 15mm hex drain plug. Some ecotec engines I've seen have a very thin plug with a torx. I'm going to grab the next one I see. The plug sits just a fuzz lower than the exhaust, and I don't like that.
Yeah, not good on a lowered car hitting a speedbump or something along those lines.
You're probably right. I like to think some sadistic engineer thinks it's funny when the guy changing the ATF gets it all over the floor and his cloths. I put a drain plug in to spite him :hick:.
I install drain plugs in all of my auto trannys right off the bat. Helps to keep things clean whenever I have to drop the pan to change the filter, which I do every 20K. Without one in place, it tends to be a pretty messy job.
Pro-tip, making the transmission drain plug the lowest point of the car, then dropping said car on SN-95 springs is dumb. Car is back to an AOD pan now.
wow,, old thread but.
pro-tip 2
use a banjo fitting on the bottom of your oil and trans pan.
use a hyd hose from your oil pan and dress /secure hose towards the outboard "side area" of your car.
your hyd hose will have a JIC fitting / cap on the end.,,,
same for trans pan.
now,, to change fluids, stoop down and with one hand locate where you have your hose clipped to.
take off the end cap and drain into pan.
this application has existed in big rig / military rigs etc for decades.
its time we stop crawling under our cars for oil changes,, its 2023
forgot to mention...........
A very good/ reliable threadd insert for making a drain plug is a product called a "JACK NUT"
drill hole
use high temp washer(s) on each side
goober some high temp jbweld on the inside/outside surface of pan
tighten bolt and it crimps in place.
the bolt you use to install the jack nut becomes your drain plug.
I think there is a bulkhead fittings (think above ground swimming pool penetrations) that would also work well.
all the above requires no welding. just the drilling of a hole.