I swapped my AOD out for a T5 this weekend, and I've got some pretty serious whining through gears 1-3. 1st gear whines the loudest, 2nd is a little quieter, and 3rd is a little quieter still, but still way too loud to be considered normal. 4th and 5th are silent. It gets louder when I accelerate, and gets quieter when I coast. The noise goes away completely when I push in the clutch pedal. Also, it pops out of reverse, no clue what to do about that. It's infuriating trying to back up though. I filled it with generic ATF, a bit over 2 quarts. I'm using a Ford 10.5 inch flywheel, an OEM (parts store) clutch, and Maximum Motorsports clutch cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster. All forward gears engage and disengage smoothly, or at least I think they do. They don't grind at all as long as I push the clutch in all the way. This is the first time I've ever driven a manual car. I can make a video if it helps, what do you guys think? Thanks!
Possible issue, I didn't grease the input shaft bearing retainer. Could the throw out bearing make noise?
So I have a set of E7s that I pulled off a MKVII I bought a while back for parts. I was wondering, can I pull the heads off my current 84, CFI, non roller 5.0 and drop the E7s on? The only thing that I can think of being a problem would be the pushrod length. Would my stock rods be the right length?
I'm still new to this, and I'm on a serious budget and time squeeze. Just looking to have some fun before I have to put the 'bird in storage. I'm doing a long awaited T5 swap next week
Quick question. How do I remove the headlamp switch in the dash? More specifically, the black dimmer wheel? I don't want to break it, but I need to remove the panel in order to get the steering column to drop. It doesn't want to twist off, and I'm afraid I'll break it if I try to pull it off. Thanks.
How would you guys go about storing a car for long periods of time, say a year? I've decided to join the Air Force. Most people would just sell their car....but not me. Storage would cost about 120 per month for a climate controlled unit. I also have an engine block, a rear axle, 8 wheels with tires, a T5 transmission and some other odds and ends to store. Like, 3 or 4 computers, clothes, video games. Stuff that I would only lose money by selling. Maybe not more than I would spend storing it, but why buy something twice?
But yeah, tank empty or full with gasoline with Stabil? On it wheels or jacked up on its suspension? Mothballs and mouse traps, or would a storage unit be enough to keep pests out? Anything I'm forgetting?
Thanks fellas, you guys are always a great source of information.
I know this is a stretch, but does anyone have one or two laying around? I just need one, but I'd gladly take more. I'm looking to do a little research on how to rebuild/restore them. I know Romeo2k had some for sale, and I sent him a PM, but he hasn't been online since April. Thanks!
I'm building an X-pipe out of some spare tubing, and with no baseline to check against, I have a question. Does anyone have some general dimensions for the stock H-pipe? I specifically need to know the distance between the two pipes at the end of the crossover, where you bolt the ler and tail pipes to. I don't have any tails on my car to measure...and I don't want one tail to sit further in than the other!
I hope you guys don't mind if I run this by you, a search didn't pull up anything useful. I have a set of Mark VII spindles, rotors, calipers, etc. that I want to put on my Thunderbird. Now according to Coolcat's tech page http://www.coolcats.net/modifying/11inchbrake.html "The 1984-92 Lincoln Mark VII spindle will fit but requires modification of the ball joint attachment hole—avoid it."
So after a little digging, I guess the Mark VII used a ball joint with a different taper on the shaft that the spindle sat on. So could I use new Mark VII ball joints in my T-Bird control arms(A-arms)? That seems like the ideal solution to me, unless the entire ball joint is a different size, and therefore wouldn't be able to be pressed into the control arm. If that doesn't work, could I use the Mark VII control arms on my Thunderbird? I'd assume they'll bolt up fine, the Mark is a fox chassis car after all. I have a few concerns with that though; are the Mark control arms longer? Would longer control arms cause problems? And is it possible to use coils with the Mark VII control arms? Using the air coil system is out of the question.
Anyone have one? I always assumed that the 84 Elans didn't come with one, until today. The sun hit the truck just perfectly, and I could see elan in dark blue on the right side of the trunk. Never noticed that before.
I'm looking at an 87 Lincoln MK VII. The seller is asking $900, which I think is a little high. The transmission is "acting up" but he states that it has the 225 HP 5.0. Assuming he's correct, that means it has E7 heads as opposed to the E6s. Would the 87 HO have forged pistons? I plan on taking the engine and putting it in my car, along with the entire exhaust system. Cats will be cashed in, but I want the headers and with a little welding I can have my exhaust actually exit out of the back of the car. I'll be taking the 8.8 disk brakes rear end. He says it has 3.27 gears and traction lock. I'll be using the front rotors and calipers as well. Might need the spindles as well? I don't have a very good understanding of how the front end on our cars work. I haven't had to replace anything on my car yet :hick: I'm hoping to avoid any problems with ABS, I might have to use my old master cylinder. The rest of the car will be parted out and sold piece by piece. Widow motors, lock actuators, any decent looking interior pieces, fog lights, etc. The shell will be sped.
I bought a T5 a while back with plans to put it in my car. Now that I have the money to do so, I wanted to open up the transmission to make sure it was good to go. Good thing I did. What do you guys think? There's a large straight cut gear on the main shaft that looks pretty chewed up. I was told that it's reverse, do you think the condition it's in is acceptable? This is my daily driver, and it'll be put into reverse at least twice a day. Also, the first helical cut gear closest to the input shaft end has some ridges on the gears, you can just barely catch a screwdriver in the ridges.
Does anyone have a set of Thunderbird centercaps for the stock wire wheels? I've been using Cougar caps for the past 3 months or so, I'd like to fix that. I'd be happy to do a straight trade for them, or just give me a price. I have paypal, zipcode is 06331. Thanks
I need some help. I went to start my car today, and it won't start. I knew immediately that the fuel pump isn't priming, you can normally hear it before I crank it; I always listen for it. Today, nothing. This car is my daily driver, so I really need to get this done quick, where is the relay, and how can I test it? The in tank pump is the one that primes the system, right?
Last night my battery died, and I had to jump it, but I got home alright. Had to replace the terminals this morning. After I replaced the terminals is when the fuel pump stopped priming. Thanks!
So the other night my car died while I was driving. It died for less than a second, just enough to make the dash lights flash and such. I didn't think it was anything to worry about. Then yesterday it died again as I went to back into a parking spot. Moving the shifter lever is what triggered it to shut off. I must bumped the shifter lever that night. It died again when I put it in drive to leave said parking place.
So I think I should replace the ignition switch and inspect the wiring. I wouldn't want it to erupt into flames, now would I? But honestly, where should I get a new switch? Should it be a Motorcraft part? Or would it just have the same design flaw? How hard is it to replace on my 84?
Where's a good place to buy a new dash cap for my 84? Mine has some really deep cracks in it, I'm looking for either an entirely new one, or a plastic cover. Not a rug, mind you. I found one here, but it's kinda pricey...
