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Topic: My 85 TBird (Read 61286 times) previous topic - next topic

My 85 TBird

Reply #45
Quote from: bodyman;407009
I have high hopes of driving it this summer. It comes down to funding and ambition. Back when I had all kinds of ambition, I didn't have the funding. Now that funds are not so hard to come up with, I have half the ambition, I am not sure where, or when I lost it, but if anybody runs across it let me know.
Your project is making me want another 4 eye bird in a bad way. I found one in decent shape somewhat local and I'm trying to figure out what I want to do. I'm taking notes from your build because a Coyote 5.0 is the plan if I go through.

My 85 TBird

Reply #46
A new 5.0 swap would be cool as hell

My 85 TBird

Reply #47
A new 5.0 would be cool. Does the 4.6 and the new 5.0 share bell housing patterns and motor mounts?

My 85 TBird

Reply #48
I do not know off the top of my head but I do think they share the same 4.6 k member


My 85 TBird

Reply #50
If you pick up this moths car craf my buddy's 4.6 notch made it in

My 85 TBird

Reply #51
Finally recieved my custom set of RLCA's from Maximum Motor Sports. Their normal adjustable arms for the Tbirds have a curved tube for the stock length spring. They built me a set with a straight tube so I could use the mustang length spring. They said they would be listing this item for sale on their website.



I have also been working on the frt suspension to get the 9" svt rims with the 275/40 tires tucked under the fender. I moved the c/c plates inboard 1 inch further than the factory holes would allow. I had to cut out some of the inside of strut towers because the springs were hitting them. Then hauled it across town to the alignment shop to see if I could hit the specs. Was able to get to about 1 degree negative camber, street specs were .5 negative. I was not so lucky on the caster, was only able to get to about 1.3 degrees. I think with some 3/4 in forward offset lower control arms, and moving the c/c plates as far back on the strut tower as possible I will be able to get to the 4.5 degree spec. Once I get some flca's it will be back to the alignment rack to make sure I can hit the specs before the strut towers get rebuilt.  Right now the car is set with the RLCA's at the lowest point, so as the car gains some weight I should be able to keep the ride height where it is.



Also made a bracket to mount the cruise control servo. Utilized two holes aready in the body of the car. This is the area it is located on the 2003 mustang.




My 85 TBird

Reply #52
I like the lowers

My 85 TBird

Reply #53
LUVIN IT !!! :bowdown:


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

“Heavy Metal Mistress”
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My 85 TBird

Reply #54
 fine work, glad to see more birds being cared for, now if they would just show up at some car shows!!!
1986 T-bird
347 stroker motor
185 AFR Heads
TrickFlow cam 224/232-542/563
Victor Jr. intake CNC ported
Quickfuel Holley 800 cfm
Hooker 1-3/4 long tubes
Custom built AOD
B&M 3000 stall
8.8 w/4.30 gears
UPR K-member,A-Arms,and coil-overs
UPR upper/lower control arms
Strange shocks/struts
26x10x15 M/T slicks
11.48@119.27
(coming soon Tremec 3550)
The Finished Product
http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/03grinnie/T-bird/

My 85 TBird

Reply #55
Spent about 20 hours going over the cobra wiring harness the last few days. Seperated what's needed and what's not, and started to fit the harness to the car. While it took a long time to cut open the harness and go over the wiring diagrams, there are not that many wires that will need to be hooked up. I am going to use the 2003 mustang battery junction box and ccrm.  I have had the pcm reprogrammed to remove the EGR, emission controls, PATS, and set up for a return fuel system. Discovered that the gauges, with the exception of engine oil pressure, are fed info over the same 2 data wires that go to the data link connector, may have to rethink my instument cluster plans. I will post specifics about the wiring when the car is up and running.

Complete mustang harness


What's left. The section to the left is the cruise control, starter circuit, and power feed wires into the car. Most of the wires that are labeled in that group are not needed, just not going to depin them until the car is running. Same goes for the bunch to the right near the pcm connector. The longer wires to the right are the wires that power the pcm, data link connector wires, back up lamp, air cond wire to hvac control switch, fuel pump relay trigger wire, and wires to the instrument cluster.

My 85 TBird

Reply #56
Great looking project. Can't wait to see it finished.

My 85 TBird

Reply #57
Spent most of the evenings this week working on the wiring. Have all the connections temporarily made but the cruise control deactivation wires, need to mount another switch on the brake pedal assy and rewire the clutch position switch. Also reworked my fuel pump mount, used the factory mount for better protection of the pump and wiring.





Also mounted up the new 3/4" forward offset lower control arms and moved the c/c plates as far back on the strut towers as possible. Maximum Motor Sports thought with this set up I should be able to get about 3.75 degrees caster, a little shy of the 4.5 street setting they recommend, but so much better than the stock setting that it will be fine. Will fit the fenders and tires tomorrow to see how it looks with the tires set forward.


My 85 TBird

Reply #58
Mounted up the 2003 mustang swaybar today. To get the motor in I had to cut the original mounts out of the car. The 03 mounts under the rails and clears all the hoses and such under the frt of the 4.6. It also has shorter arms from the body mount point to the swaybar endlink hole for better tire clearence while turning. First had to clean the old mount reinforcement off the rails, then I mocked it up to find where to locate it, moved it as far back as I thought possible. Used the tbird mount that I cut out to mark and locate the holes. Also was able to use the tbird nut-plate and insert it into the rails. Because the k member is shimmed, the swaybar also needs shimmed.

Old mounting reinforcement with spot welds drilled

Removed

Also used old mount for guide to file square hole for clip

Had to enlarge an existing hole to get nut-plate installed


My 85 TBird

Reply #59
Was able to get a few things done this weekend. Made a bracket to mount the 03 battery junction box, only issue was to make sure it cleared the neck for the washer solvent tank.





Installed the new fuel rails, pressure regulator, and ran some fuel lines. Fuel lines are conductive core ptfe that Glenns Performance supplied with the tank, pump and regulator.

Return lines to regulator.


Y block and feed lines to back of rails. Still need to run return line up to regulator. Also need to make some more clearance around the fuel lines.


Also remedied the swaybar endlink angle issue. The 3/8 rod ends look a bit small to me, but are rated at 8500 lbs. Will put some spacers on both sides of the rod end so there is no binding against the bracket or nut, that and some grade 8 bolts with lock nuts during final assy.