So im making serious headway on my custom gauge panel but need some help since my car is in storage 20 miles away and I cannot reference it.
I need to know which circuits on the flexible circuit board go to where. (Like 12v+, turn signal, etc)
I am trying to solder aftermarket gauge wires and custom indicator lights into the panel circuitry so I can utilize the factor plug in harness and fuse block to simplify and streamline things.
So like most of the plastics parts on this car, those trapezoid looking caps on the end of the heater control arms are breaking off. Unfortunately they broke into pieces and I cannot reverse engineer.
So, has anyone taken these caps off and how? I would like to remove one so I can reverse engineer the internal locking mechanism and re-create them out of aluminum.
Does anyone have any insight on the total upgrade kits from LMR? From the way they are advertised, it seems like they are a plug and play kit to upgrade our brake system to the "cobra" style with the INCLUDED SN95 spindles. From quick research, it appears to include just about everything you need, instead of the old method of piecing together parts bought seperatley?
Over the winter, im really wanting to upgrade the brake system while also converting to 5 lug. Im really hoping this kit is what it is.
So im looking to replace my proportioning valve with little modification as possible. Does anyone know what size the fittings are for all the ports? Or does anyone have any experience with an aftermarket one that bolts right up?
Does anybody know if it is even possible to remove and replace the buttstuffog gauges in the instrument pbuttstuff, for say, a 1986 t-bird with aftermarket ones?
I have so many oher projects that make fabbing up a custem bezel impossible right now, so i figured a pre made OEM template would be the best way to go....hopefully
Any help greatly appreciated
P.S Wiring and sender compatibility is not an issue, i just want the cluster for mounting purposes.
Does anybody happen to have just the in tank hanger assembly for fuel pump? I dont need the fuel pump and the fittings could be cracked or broke for all i care.
Needs to fit/conditions:
1986 ford thunderbird v6 gas tank
Needs to be the model thats for the single in-tank style setup. (if theres more than one setup)
Cant be completley rusted or have numerous holes. I need a solid base to work with.
Im also in the market for the fuel level float assembly. NOS if possible. Same conditions as above.
Do not message me on here. Please use provided e-mail:
Just wondering if a fox body mustang gas tank will fit into my 86 t bird. I really want that stealth fuel tank setup from aeromotive, and really don't want to do a fuel cell.
Since i work for ROUSH and get a 30% discount on all parts, i decided to Finally start my engine swap plans this year.
So i had performance division order me a 351w stroker short block ( Which is an aftermarket dblock that comes out to be a 427 ci shortblock)
Now DART states that all its aftermarket blocks Accept all standard parts a normal block would and will accept all oer components such as transmissions, and fit in standard mounting locations.
Well heres the 3 main problems ive had so far with no explanation.
1. The engine sits farther back in the engine bay causing my BBK headers to sit right on steering shaft. (had to custom fab one up)
2. Im using the recomended Canton racing oil pan for 351w swaps into a fox body and the oil pan sits on the sway bar.
3. And since the engine sits farther back, I now barely have any end play where my driveshaft goes into trans.
Ive noticed that all BBK long tubes for the fox body with a 351w swap are for "T-5 manual trans only"
Im guessing this is because the headers dont clear the trans kick-down and column shift linkage?
So does anyone know if they will work with my C-4 auto since i dont have any of the trans kick down linkage and have converted it to a floor shift with a hurst cable shifter?
