Check and see what the Mustang guys are using as there are way more of them running manual racks.
So that response tells me that indeed they are interchangeable
I have heard problems with people buying aftermarket racks (power or manual) and the bushings not being the correct size. Replacement racks no problems but ones from flaming river, unisteer, etc use different size?
Thank you. I have that printed out. But since I don't have the connectors in front of me, I don't know where their physical location is in relation to the circuit board on back of the cluster. Ill check later tonight but I don't think the housing or circuit board have the circuit numbers printed on them that match up to the plug?
So im making serious headway on my custom gauge panel but need some help since my car is in storage 20 miles away and I cannot reference it.
I need to know which circuits on the flexible circuit board go to where. (Like 12v+, turn signal, etc)
I am trying to solder aftermarket gauge wires and custom indicator lights into the panel circuitry so I can utilize the factor plug in harness and fuse block to simplify and streamline things.
If you want to shoot me a sketch I'll print one in ABS. Not sure how it'll hold up the point pressure.
One thing to keep in mind with 3D printing is that most of the materials available are not UV rated and will need a coat of paint. I printed a throttle cable guide to keep it from snagging on my steering damper on my bike. It is holding well since I put a coat of paint on it.
Greatly appreciate that! Hopefully ill get to the car soon to start dimensioning things out. Problem is that its in storage a decent distance from my house.
Aluminum will be quite hot/cold during temperate extremes. What about 3D printed plastic s?
Your absolutely correct. But a 3D printer is the ONE type of machine that I don't have in my shop lol. The controls will be more for appearance than functionality because the car is only driven in the summer and has no AC.
what he's saying is the "clicks" on when installed. so there is a tab you would manipulate coming in from the back with a 90deg tool to release the tab "while pulling".
the tab would be made as a part of the .
i have a spare unit i can check up in the attic if you want me to verify cause to be honest , i am pretty sure this is one of those "rare" first time asked questions.
scott 304 772 3411
Ahhh, now I gotcha. Yeah, most of my questions are the rare ones One of the s fell off, and its just a matter of time before they all do, so I figured I might as well replace them. The goal is to make new ones that slip over the metal lever but be held on by set screws since re-making the locking mechanism with a solid piece of aluminum would probably be close to impossible.
Never mind, got it all working! Thanks for the right clicking advice and thankyou for the drawings! Currently got them all turned into a solid model ready for machining!
My car isn't near me and also in storage, so I cant do measurements, but the one base has an offset hole. In what way should this plate be orientated?
So like most of the plastics parts on this car, those trapezoid looking caps on the end of the heater control arms are breaking off. Unfortunately they broke into pieces and I cannot reverse engineer.
So, has anyone taken these caps off and how? I would like to remove one so I can reverse engineer the internal locking mechanism and re-create them out of aluminum.
Does anyone have any insight on the total upgrade kits from LMR? From the way they are advertised, it seems like they are a plug and play kit to upgrade our brake system to the "cobra" style with the INCLUDED SN95 spindles. From quick research, it appears to include just about everything you need, instead of the old method of piecing together parts bought seperatley?
Over the winter, im really wanting to upgrade the brake system while also converting to 5 lug. Im really hoping this kit is what it is.
Thanks for that info, but not really needed (excuse my rudeness, its early and coffee aint done)
And, I actually just replaced the master cylinder a few days ago. I replaced it because I thought it was the reason for having no brakes. Turns out, no.
I believe the proportioning valve has gone bad (valve stuck) because brake fluid only comes out of the front bleeders. Plus, an aftermarket adjustable one would allow me to tailor my braking distribution since I have skinnies up front and meats in the back. I would like to mail order the fittings and lines along with the valve, so im hoping I could get the exact sizes of threads.
So im looking to replace my proportioning valve with little modification as possible. Does anyone know what size the fittings are for all the ports? Or does anyone have any experience with an aftermarket one that bolts right up?
One of the s fell off, and its just a matter of time before they all do, so I figured I might as well replace them. The goal is to make new ones that slip over the metal lever but be held on by set screws since re-making the locking mechanism with a solid piece of aluminum would probably be close to impossible.