Drain plug

Topic: Drain plug (Read 2521 times) previous topic - next topic

Reply #15 – February 12, 2013, 05:56:53 AM

Good points guys. Thanks for the response. This pan is obsolete. So buying a new one is out. A lot of the early 5.0 pans had this issue. I have actually repaired several right in the car. People have different outlooks on repairs as stated above. Removing a 5.0 pan sucks and is big bucks. So a quick repair in the car works for many. Naturally i am going to paint this pan. Has anyone repaired a pan in the car. I have and i am always afraid one will blow up in flames. But i never had one do that. Just a talking point!!

Drain plug

Reply #16 – February 12, 2013, 06:38:52 AM

Well, it certainly isn't pretty, but if pretty isn't what you're going for, tell you guys that form follows function. I put a drain plug in my trans pan using an o-ringed drain plug and I put the bolt on the inside, and tacked it with 3 spot welds. It looks good, but there's just a little bit of fluid that's not going to be able to come out.

Drain plug

Reply #17 – February 12, 2013, 07:18:07 PM

UGLY is correct FOE!!! And i spent all my life making cars PRETTY. Or should i say NASTY. And that plug is UGLY. So i am thinking i am going to change it. But then again WHY??? So confusing that is why i posted it. Be it as it may i need to sleep on this. My head mechanic thinks it looks like and he any some of you guys agree. Well i need to think about this over a BEER and a Burger. Thanks Guys!!

Drain plug

Reply #18 – February 12, 2013, 09:45:40 PM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;409152

Has anyone repaired a pan in the car. I have and i am always afraid one will blow up in flames. But i never had one do that. Just a talking point!!

weld on them all the time no issues

Drain plug

Reply #19 – February 13, 2013, 07:15:19 AM

Sleeper what i do is drain all the oil and let it sit overnight with the plug out of course. Then i install one of those repair kits that the plug in the center. You know what i mean. It has a screw in the middle. Then i started to use the pipe reducers thinking they were better. Some say they are some say NO GOOD. Then i braze it in to the pan. Loads of smoke from the engine and shaking in my boots every time i do it. But remember the older 302 drain plugs that used to strip all the time. They had the same setup as the pan i posted. The insert was to hard and used to SPLIT as i posted. The only other way to fix it was replace the pan with an UP DATED UNIT. Easier said than dun in a Fofd T Bird or Stang. I used to remove the K frame to do this. So what to do with this pan as it is the pan for the MIDNIGHTER. Ok time to decide before i button the Midnighters new engine UP. What a revolting development i am in!!!!

Drain plug

Reply #20 – February 13, 2013, 08:32:49 AM

It seems to me that only the road is going to see it, and if the road doesn't like how it looks, I'm almost certain it will keep it to itself.

Drain plug

Reply #21 – February 13, 2013, 12:30:30 PM

GOOD point FOE!!

Drain plug

Reply #22 – February 13, 2013, 12:37:51 PM

Question for ya. Is it a really nice car, one that mostly sees show events, or is it a driver that gets beat on daily?

How many judges get under a car to look at the drain plug?
How many oil spots do you like in your garage/driveway/parking spot.

Function over form. Give it a shot of good black paint, and enjoy your burger and brew. I wouldn't think twice about it on mine, but then, my stuff isn't exactly show worthy, but I have a boxer that marks his stops everywhere he goes...my Bird doesn't need to follow suit.

Drain plug

Reply #23 – February 13, 2013, 08:06:33 PM

Good point 302. Mostly the guys just want to bust my BALLS on this one. I have repaired many a CAT for this issue. As the nut inside the pans are tack welded from the factory and has a nasty habit of breaking loose. So thought about it laughed about it and forgot about it and will install the pan AS IS!!

Drain plug

Reply #24 – February 14, 2013, 09:06:26 PM

I would take a 3/4" npt coupling and cut it in half. Either mig or tig only because its stonger than a brazed joint. Otherwise nice repair!

Drain plug

Reply #25 – February 14, 2013, 09:31:11 PM

Kinda makes one wonder why the OEMs didn't do it like that stock.

Drain plug

Reply #26 – February 15, 2013, 02:25:53 AM

Quote from: Monkeyturbochicken;409371

I would take a 3/4" npt coupling and cut it in half. Either mig or tig only because its stonger than a brazed joint. Otherwise nice repair!

lets consider the melting point of brass and compare that to the engines capability of achieving that mark.
Good work Tom, at least your doing something that works for this problem.

my son has an issue with the drain plug now. hes currently running an oversized plug. For some reason no one at the parts box stores know what im talking about when i describe the very repair kit you described.

Does anyone know what a "PEM NUT" is? google it. They are called "PEM" fasteners and ***are*** the solution if you can crack the code on how make them work. in thier root form, they will work and leak unless you figure out how to flair the oposite reduced side.
i would love to know how i can use a pemnut , insert the slightly reduced end up into the pan and then flair it out without taking the pan off the car.

An example of my pemnut was a lugage rack that went on my wifes old kia sportage, it came with roof top anchors. they were threaded on the inside and smooth on the outside. you drill a hole, drop them in and then per the instructions, usng a nut and a bolt in a certain way, you end up flairing the anchor so it kina rivits in place. take out your bolt and nut and there you are looking at a threaded anchor point.
in this example too much of the anchor would stick up into the pan and you would never drain all the oil... the "PEM NUT" would fix that.

here is one of many examples but i know it will get the best of us thinking
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pem-Self-Clinching-Nuts-S-0518-3-Clinch-nut-5-16-18-x-413-per-thousand-/140741032010?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D300801502441%26ps%3D54

I see these all the time in copper power buss work, they exist on many ILine breakers or in High current DC power systems.

Drain plug

Reply #27 – February 15, 2013, 02:36:09 AM

humm, taking a little time and i did find the blind PEM nuts interesting.

http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_products/nuts_for_sheetmetal.html

so i wonder if these can be used for our troubles we are speaking to.
theres gotta be a tool out there that can be inserted inside the PEM fastener such that it allows a locking nut / threaded rod or bolt installation process to flair it out.

now this would be a permanent and professional fix for pennies on the dollar with no welding required,, shop savings !

Drain plug

Reply #28 – February 15, 2013, 02:57:14 AM

wow,
I just found exactly what is the fix.
http://catalog.pemnet.com/viewitems/all-metal-locking-thread-nuts-types-lk-lka-lks/-self-clinching-fasteners-types-lk-lka-lks-unified?&bc=100|1039|1196|1051|1250
-Add a sealing washer( would suggest a banjo fitting washer (brass) or even a high temp plastic washer)
-stuff this in oil pan hole
-start your bolt in the hole
-add a wrench to keep the "PEMFLEX" anchor still
-use a socket to finish installing the bolt
-remove bolt completly out and the PEMFLEX nut is set and ready to be your new drain hole.
-the bolt you used to set the PEMFLEX anchor now becomes your drain plug

it flairs out as you install the bolt,, thier write up is correct,, very simple
.
.

Drain plug

Reply #29 – February 15, 2013, 03:36:38 AM

here we go
pulled some basic info out on the PemFlex fastener

im starting to think ..pop an oring on this and install.

basically this is the very opposite concept of what we see in the box stores with respect to the "oversized oil drain plugs" where they are tapered and machined at 90deg intervals on thier lateral, split down the sides.

this would be the reverse negative of that conceptual engineering.