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Electrical issues

Hi guys..I Haven't been on here for a while.
I'm having some kind of issue with the electrical in my 88 TC.
About a month ago I drove car to work..when I cut car off I noticed fuel pump was still on..this blowed my mind considering that the key to car was out of switch and in my hand.
So I put key back in switch turned switch on and then back off and fuel pump shut off.
That's the only way to get the pump to shut off.
I've also noticed my gauges also acting crazy and car isn't running quite right.
I can have car running(not driving it) and I can run the rpms up to 2000+rpms and the speedo is running around 20-30mph and I'm sitting still.
I've been driving around B4 and watch my temp,oil,and fuel gauge jump up to Max and then come back down within a few minutes.
The speedo also sometimes jumps up when I roll my windows up and down.. pretty much about anything I do inside the car will make the speedo jump up.
I've read that this is a common problem with these cars.
As far as running goes..when I 1st crank car it dies..I might have to crank it twice B4 it starts up and runs without stalling.
It will start but it bucks fusses and complains for alittle bit and then it will smooth out.
That has recently started to..I'm wondering if the electrical  problem is causing that too.
Then yesterday I drove car it was doing it's normal thing..then when I pulled into my driveway the car was barely idling at 400-500rpm.
Ive had ignition module issues which I've replaced about 6 of them since I've own car.
I changed the ignition switch..using an on switch..that didn't change anything.
I just don't know what to do anymore.
Any suggestions would be helpful
Thanks

Electrical issues

Reply #1
Quote from: wpblackfoxturbo;465758
I changed the ignition switch..using an on switch..that didn't change anything.
Please explain what you mean by "using an on switch" .

Electrical issues

Reply #2
Did you replace this switch?

Electrical issues

Reply #3
Quote from: softtouch;465760
Please explain what you mean by "using an on switch" .


OEM switch

Electrical issues

Reply #4
Quote from: softtouch;465761
Did you replace this switch?


Yes..that's the switch I replaced

Electrical issues

Reply #5
has anyone ever.............

1- fiddled with the fuel pump relay in the trunk to force the pump to run?

2- did a 3g alt upgrade

3- had the instrument cluster out


comment- there is a large resistor on the back of  your instrument cluster.
-remove the cluster
-go to lowes and buy a stick of "soap stone".  this is what welders use to mark metal.  its about 3/16'' thick, about 7/16'' wide and about 5'' long.
-cut soap stone to length of the instrument cluster resistor (big white skinny doo dad bolted to the back).
-inspect the instrument cluster flex print for burn marks or any runs that are busted then repair if needed.
-use a round chainsaw file longways along the soap stone to transfer in a groove that matches somewhat the profile of the skinny resistor.
- loosen up or remove the resistor
-slip the soap stone under the resistor
-tighten down the resistor.

Now all heat generated from the resistor will not make it to our fragile plastic flex print.

this mod cured my son's 5.0L 88 bird erratic gauge issues


in all likelihood, it sounds to me like you may have two separate isolated problems....

Electrical issues

Reply #6
Thanks jcassity
No on has messed with the fuel pump relay and if I recall the fuel runs off that black box that looks like a computers mounted to the right side strut tower.
I had had the instrument cluster out.
It had been taken out B4.
The last time I had it out..was about a year or so ago.
I did notice when I had cluster out that there was a black wire coming out of harness that wasn't hooked to anything and I couldn't find a black wire anywhere to reattach

Electrical issues

Reply #7
You are right, your fuel pump relay is in the IRCM module on the strut tower. The EEC power relay is also in the IRCM.
There two ways the fuel pump relay should de-energize:
1. The EEC recognizes the engine is not running and removes the ground from the fuel pump relay coil.
2. The EEC power relay de-energizes and removes the power to the fuel pump relay coil.
The EEC power relay should de-energize when you turn the key off.

If fuel pump problem happens all the time, or frequently enough to trouble shoot, try this:
1. Turn the key to RUN but don't start the engine:
2. Does the pump run for 2 seconds then shut off?
3. Probe one of the red wires that go to all the fuel injectors. Should have battery voltage.
4. Turn the key off. After a 5 second delay you should lose the power on the injectors.

If the problem is intermittent, try this sequence several times to see if you can catch the power not shutting off to the injectors.
This would indicate that the EEC power relay is not de-energizing when you turn the key off.

Electrical issues

Reply #8
Ok thanks.
When I turn my switch on..the fuel pump runs then shuts off like normal.
There has been a couple of times the fuel pump did turn off when I turned off switch but most of the time it stays on.
Could the ignition module cause some of them issue.
Just wondering because I just recently had to change module..then this happened the same day I changed it

Electrical issues

Reply #9
The TFI ignition module does generate the PIP pulse to the EEC to indicate that the engine is running. I guess when electronic things go crazy anything is possible.
Still would like to know if the EEC power relay is dropping power to the injectors when the key is off.

Electrical issues

Reply #10
I'll have to check EEC relay this weekend. I'm bout tempted to go get a motorcraft or an accel module and try that just to see  what happens. Like I said earlier..I've been through a lot of modules on my car

Electrical issues

Reply #11
I would do some trouble shooting before buying parts.
If key off cuts power to the EEC power relay, that should also cut power to the fuel pump relay. No matter what the TFI ignition module is doing.

Electrical issues

Reply #12
Voltage from the ignition switch at "home plate Y" to module pin 13 picks the EEC power relay.
EEC power relay contacts closing puts voltage on the fuel pump relay coil and puts voltage on the RED wire on module pin 24. (the same RED wire that's on the injectors)
The EEC puts ground on module pin18 and picks the fuel pump relay.
Fuel pump relay contacts closing puts voltage on module pin 5 and the pink/black wire to the fuel pump.

IRCM module diagram:

Electrical issues

Reply #13
Thanks..I wish it was simpler lol.
I did get another module cause I'm tired of this cheaper ones that I've been going through every few months.
I got an accel module.
I do think I've got another issues with the electrical but I'm not the world's smartest at trying to figure out an electric problem.
I've had a problem with some of the electrical anyway.
Like someone has wired something into the fuse panel and burn up one of the fuses in the panel..it's burnt to the point to where it is fused together and I can't get a fuse in it.
I'll try to diagnose the EEC this weekend I hope
Thanks for help

Electrical issues

Reply #14
Quote from: wpblackfoxturbo;465805
Like someone has wired something into the fuse panel and burn up one of the fuses in the panel..it's burnt to the point to where it is fused together and I can't get a fuse in it.
do you have a multimeter and a test light for trouble shooting electrical problems?

Which fuse position is screwed up?