Hello everyone. I'm in the process of changing the wiring harness that goes through the firewall and behind the dash. I found that my fuse box have a couple of areas burnt. I also found that my heater control harness was melted on one side and that my wiper switch harness was melted to. I also found that my in switch harness was broke in two pieces. So I found a good wiring harness and im going through whole process of changing it all. One question I have is...would all the problems I found with my old harness cause IGN module problem. I've been going through modules about every 2-3 months and right B4 I decided to change the wiring harness... I couldn't even drive the car 5 miles before it started cutting out and stalling. I know if the module harness is separate from the one I'm replacing but I figured this would be a good start.
Hi guys..I Haven't been on here for a while. I'm having some kind of issue with the electrical in my 88 TC. About a month ago I drove car to work..when I cut car off I noticed fuel pump was still on..this blowed my mind considering that the key to car was out of switch and in my hand. So I put key back in switch turned switch on and then back off and fuel pump shut off. That's the only way to get the pump to shut off. I've also noticed my gauges also acting crazy and car isn't running quite right. I can have car running(not driving it) and I can run the rpms up to 2000+rpms and the speedo is running around 20-30mph and I'm sitting still. I've been driving around B4 and watch my temp,oil,and fuel gauge jump up to Max and then come back down within a few minutes. The speedo also sometimes jumps up when I roll my windows up and down.. pretty much about anything I do inside the car will make the speedo jump up. I've read that this is a common problem with these cars. As far as running goes..when I 1st crank car it dies..I might have to crank it twice B4 it starts up and runs without stalling. It will start but it bucks fusses and complains for alittle bit and then it will smooth out. That has recently started to..I'm wondering if the electrical problem is causing that too. Then yesterday I drove car it was doing it's normal thing..then when I pulled into my driveway the car was barely idling at 400-500rpm. Ive had ignition module issues which I've replaced about 6 of them since I've own car. I changed the ignition switch..using an on switch..that didn't change anything. I just don't know what to do anymore. Any suggestions would be helpful Thanks
OK..I've read some of the forums on her about temp gauge problem but I haven't seen this issue. Since I've had my TC the temp gauge has always read cold in the blue even when I know the engine was hotter than that. I changed the sending unit and then the gauge slowly started climbing but then after a few minutes of running the gauge maxed out and the engine wasn't even warm yet. I didn't think the sending unit was bad then I read that a member on here said he went through three sending units b4 he got one that worked properly..So I might have jumped the gun..I took dash cluster out and swapped gauge from my other car put all back together and gauge done the same thing and my fuel gauge stopped working. I pulled cluster back out to and used the cluster out of my parts car..Now my fuel gauge is working I think not for sure how much gas is in it but as soon as I turned on the switch temp gauge maxed out in a few seconds and the engine was off and cold. I don't know if I got a wiring problem or I should change sending unit again. What y'all think
OK here I I'm again with and issue let me go through rundown of what I've done. In March intermittent shaft broke some teeth and stripped if some teeth on dis. So I ordered the shaft from Esslinger racing and installed it with the new brass dizzy gear. I went ahead and installed a new fuel pump because I had to change the tank year ago which it came of a v8 sport tbird which didn't have the right fuel pressure. I got car I think in time all my markers r gone so I adjusted to the best of my ability car cranks and runs good has a rough idle but it's been doing that since I've owned the car. I know I probably have vacuum issues thats something I'm going to get to soon but my big problem is my boost is coming in around 2500 and pulls good but only building 6lbs of boost according to boost gauge the gauge didn't work when I first bought car but it ran whole lot better them b4 the gear broke it was only building 6lbs boost so I assumed it was fuel pressure but now it's still only 6lbs but that don't bug me as much as it coming in later in rpms it feels sluggish. I wonder if maybe my cam is advanced a tooth and maybe I should retard it a tooth the car is stock no mods just air cleaner. I also thought maybe my timing is out a tooth it took me a little bit to get it right with no markers but it cranks pretty good not as good as last time but it's not running as good as it was b4 gear broke. I just wonder if I should move the cam to retarded side but I need to know which way to go so I don't get it to far of then drive see what happens then go to dis and try timing again. I just want it to run better than it did. I've read on the forums that the cam is 9.5 degrees a tooth thats y I'm thing it could b advanced a tooth I don't have no spark knock like I used to but my power band sucks. I drive n town and up 25-35 mph hills and car lags bad. Any help any better than none. Thanks
OK this is the 3rd time that my TC has stripped teeth on dizzy gear and auxiliary shaft and I know this I common problem on TC and I know I should had pulled oil pan and cleaned all metal out so some of this is my fault but I've read a lot of forum on this issue but haven't been able to figure out how to fix it permanently I like the car but one guy said he was stripping gears every 5k miles so he sold it . What is causing it? If I pull the pan clean it and replace pump would that fix or could it be a barren problem if it is a barren problem then I might b selling a TC but there isn't any play when aux shaft is n and it feels good when I put it in like I said this is 3rd time would like to fix but I don't want or need it breaking again in 3k- 5k mile any suggestions would b helpful and not ruling out selling I've had to fix so many problems in the past three yrs that it's starting to get to me.
Hey everyone my 88tc been idling crazy so figured tps needs replacement which is no big deal but did some checking around can't find one. Does anyone know where to find one I've checked Autozone,O'Reillys,Napa no one has one in stock or in warehouse. Can the sensor b interchangeable?
Hello. Month ago I changed rear axle n my TC after I got it all together and went to bleed brakes I found I had no brake fluid going to rear brakes so after research and talking to members on this forum I found my pressure warning switch wasn't turning pump on so I swapped it out from my parts car now pump is working but still no fluid to rear brakes and pedal still hard to push cant figure out cause I was driving the car the day before I swapped out rear axle and everything was fine I test drove car with hardly any brakes and found that that rear axle wasn't any better so swapped axle back out with original and I use all original parts that came off car ad still have no pressure to calipers or to main brake line to rear axle I've been working on it too long and hit a road block has anybody had this problem or solution I went on NATO and read up on the TEVES II system that's were I found out pump wasn't working and how to diagnose problem that's when I found PWS was at fault but now I'm stumped
I have a 88TC with the teves2 system I want to swap vacuum booster from 88tbird sport looks like direct swap. If I do this how will brakes do under hard braking will it stop or slide to stop don't want to slide 300 ft lol. Figured members have done this swap so any info appreciated
Hi everyone I swap out rear axle in my 88 TC I used all parts from my other TC except brake lines my problems is when I went to bleed brakes the brake pedal was hard and never got spongy or went to floor when I broke bleeder valve and no fluid came out so I broke line loose going to block on rear axle still no fluid even with someone holding pedal down I check fluid in reservoir and it was full. So I drove car up street and brake was hard to push pasted a certain spot once I reached that spot I really had to push hard just to make car stop. Most time when I've broke a line loose u have to bleed to get air out but I have no pressure in lines most time pedal is spongy if don't bleed not hard. I was driving car last week and everything was fine I took axle Friday and put other one in Sat and this is what happened to brakes. Any suggestion? This is a daily driver and car has had good brakes maybe there's something I did wrong that I didn't know about thanks
I have 3 birds 2 r turbos. My daily driver is 88 TC the rear axle has roar and vibration I'm thinking pinion bearing but that different subject. What I'm confused about is I bought a 87 TC for parts was told all original. I did a 5spd swap and planned on swapping read axle but my parts car is a factory TC but it has a 7.5 rear axle with disk brakes. I have been researching and in 88 the TC came standard with 8.8 track lok 3.55 or 3.73 but y would my 87 TC have 7.5 limited slip disk brakes I searched and the 7.5 was not an option for 87-88 TC. Y and how would u get that rear axle with disk brakes n that car. Any input would b good I planned on putting that rear axle in my driver (which is 8.8 3.73 locker)
I posted a thread on here while back but I've lost. I need to know what else will I need to swap 4cyl tur car to v8 swap these I what I have Complete 88 ford Thunderbird v8sport I've had this car for 13 years was daily driver but due to bent frame and chassis damage I'm stripping this car to and putting n 88 turbo coupe. I know there is some differences between trans. Need to know about mating the v8 to the 5pd n my turbo car. I know that the gearing n turbo trans isn't good for v8 especially with 373 gear but have parts so y not use. Any info helpful.. really don't know about pilot bearing.
I've got a decent black tc that I like the car enough that I had robb parts off my other tbird that I wanted to fix but car was off the road do to some problems. What I need to know is using my other tbird as a donor will the swap b straight forward or a pain. Both cars r 88s one is turbo coupe 5spd the other is base sport v8 auto. I want to keep 5spd will transmission mate to a 302 after changing bellhousing flywheel clutch and pressure plate
I got a 5.0 tbird that ive had for 12 yrs car has been good to me except for the past yr I bought my black TC so I really wasnt worried about it but now TC is giving me problems so I just want to get my baby fixed about a yr ago I was driving the car everyday to work then one day the car just decided it was going to stall every time I slow down to a stop and hesitation bad when u get off throttle and get back on throttle its like it stalls then all the sudden it just kicks n I have changed about every sensor that I could think of I changed the ignition switch and car got better but still does same thing Ive run a code test and I got same codes that I always got before when car was running good any suggestions would help I got lots of time n this car she is my baby thinking about getting rid of my TC just to much headache
